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Serving homeowners, landscape professionals,
and the discriminating collector.

Drop Ins Welcome
Appointments recommended

Ofc Hours: 9:00-4:00, Tues-Sat
666 Wagnon Road, Sebastopol, CA 95472
Tel: 707.823.5866  Fax: 707.829.8106

Nursery Visits and Email contact info

Books on Bamboo
Crafting & Wood Working Tools
Planter Boxes
Gift Certificates
Fascinating Facts about Bamboo
How Bamboos Grow
Clumping and Running Bamboos
Containment of Bamboo
Rhizome Barrier Installation
Flowering of Bamboos
How and When to Plant
Site and Soil Preparation
Potting Mixes
Fertilizers for Bamboo
Watering of Bamboo
Possible Bamboo Pests
Bamboo Plant Selection
Regional Recommendations
Bamboo Indoors
Removal of Bamboo

Books on Bamboo

To order books, click on the title, or click "Books on Bamboo" in the "Product Prices" menu.

Bamboo for Gardens by Ted Jordan Meredith Excellent reference book describing over 300 bamboos and their requirements, with 140 pages of species and photos, some from Bamboo Sourcery. Hardbound.

Building Bamboo Fences by Isao Yoshikawa How-to-book, showcasing 20 traditional Japanese bamboo fence styles in color photographs and detailed instructional diagrams, illustrating bamboo working techniques, ties and knots, and joinery. Softcover.

Farming Bamboo by Daphne Lewis & Carol Miles Finally! A great book on commercial farming of bamboo! Takes the reader from planting through harvest and marketing of poles and shoots, in fine detail. Softcover.

Ornamental Bamboos A gardener's guide to nearly 200 ornamental bamboos, based on the author's experience in a cool-temperature climate in Hampshire, England, where his nursery holds the National Collection of Bamboos for the U.K. Emphasis is on the unique qualities of bamboo, uses for bamboo, and plants recommended for specific landscaping purposes. Incl. 171 pgs of species descriptions & color photos. Hardbound.

Practical Bamboos Proposes imaginative design and landscaping ideas, and puts these dynamic, rewarding plants within easy reach.
by Paul Whitaker

The Craft & Art of Bamboo by Carol Stangler Beautiful Asian designs for Japanese fences, gates, screens, home and garden accents, with photos and lists of tools and suppliers. Softcover.

The Gardener's Guide to Growing Temperate Bamboos by Michael Bell SOLD OUTAn excellent, concisely written reference book for the gardener, including 58 pages of species descriptions and color photos. Hardbound.

Timber Press Pocket Guide to Bamboos by Ted Jordan Meredith Packed with all the authority of an encyclopedia in a pocket-size format, this book is a perfect reference for taking to the nursery, or if you are a landscaper it is great for sharing quick visuals with your clients. Covers 300 species in 35 genera. Softcover. 208 pages


Bamboo Poles

We do not ship poles. Point-of-sale purchases only.

Pole width tapers from end to end. The diameters below refer to the wider end. No pole is perfectly straight. Bamboo is extremely strong, however cracks can and do appear lengthwise with age and dryness. We know of no way to prevent this.

1" diam x 6' Yellow Poles (Tonkin Cane) $5.00

1" diam x 6' Black Poles (Leopard Bamboo) $8.25

1" diam x 8' Yellow Poles (Tonkin Cane) $7.00

1" diam x 12' Yellow Poles (Tonkin Cane) $8.00

1" diam x 12' Black Poles (Leopard Bamboo) $10.75

1.5" diam x 8' Yellow Poles (Tonkin Cane) $14.75

1.5" diam x 12' Yellow Poles (Tonkin Cane) $19.00

1.5" diam x 12' Black Poles (Leopard Bamboo) $22.00

2" diam x 8' Yellow Poles (Tonkin Cane) $21.00

2" diam x 12' Yellow Poles (Tonkin Cane) $35.00

2" diam x 12' Black Poles (Leopard Bamboo) $29.75

3" diam x 12' Yellow Poles (Tonkin Cane) $56.25

4" diam x 8' Yellow Poles (Tonkin Cane) $60.25

4" diam x 12' Yellow Poles (Tonkin Cane) $70.25

5" diam x 8' Yellow Poles (Tonkin Cane) $65.00

5" diam x 12' Yellow Poles (Tonkin Cane) $71.50


Adjustable Spout & Pump: 12" Attractive and practical design with an adjustable base. With the adjustable base, the spouts can be raised or lowered to the perfect fit. This water feature provides more sound than other fountain kits and can help mask traffic noise and other distractions.

Adjustable Spout & Pump: 18" Attractive and practical design with an adjustable base. With the adjustable base, the spouts can be raised or lowered to the perfect fit. This water feature provides more sound than other fountain kits and can help mask traffic noise and other distractions.

Spout & Pump: 12" three arm 12" Three-Arm spout produces a deep, rich sound from its wide water flow, with no splashing. Because the spout sits near the surface of the water, it works well even in shallow containers. This makes it ideal for indoor or tabletop fountains.

Spout & Pump: 18" three arm 18" Three-Arm spout produces a deep, rich sound from its wide water flow, with no splashing. Because the spout sits near the surface of the water, it works well even in shallow containers. This makes it ideal for indoor or tabletop fountains. The large sized Three-Arm fountain kit creates a statement that will enhance any garden scene. Pair it with a large container to create a symphony of water.


Fertilizer 16-6-8 Fertilizer 16-6-8, 5 lbs. High nitrogen for green leaves, for in ground plants only.

Fertilizer 6-24-24 Fertilizer 6-24-24, 5 lbs. For growth of roots and shoots, in ground plants only

Fertilizer BioFlora Crumbles 6-6-5+8% Ca Fertilizer 6-6-5+8% Ca Organic

Fertilizer 15-15-15 Simplot Fertilizer 15-15-15 Simplot, 5 lbs. 4 mo. slow release for potted plants.

Crafting & Wood Working Tools

Bamboo Hatchet Bamboo Hatchet Oak Handle 6.5"

Bamboo Splitter 4 Way Bamboo Splitter 4 Way

Bamboo Splitter 5 Way Bamboo Splitter 5 Way

Bamboo Splitter 6 Way Bamboo Splitter 6 Way

Bamboo Splitter 8 Way Bamboo Splitter 8 Way

Brad Point Drill Bit Set 7 pc 12" Cal Hawk Brad Point Drill Bit Set 7 pc 12"

Gyokucho Bamboo Saw Gykucho Fugaku Bamboo Saw 270mm 10.5'

Gyokucho Folding Saw (Fine) Gyokucho Folding Saw / Fine 250mm 10"

Gyokucho Pruning Saw Gyokucho Fugaku Kajyu Pruning Saw 270mm 10.5"

Mikihisa Folding Knife Mikihisa Folding Knife 2.75"

Palm Rope Palm Rope / Brown 330'

Gyokucho Folding Saw (All Purpose) Gyokucho Folding Saw / All purpose 250mm 10"

Planter Boxes

2'W x 2'L x 18"D Redwood Planter Box
2' Wide x 2' Long x 18" Deep, Lined with Rhizome Barrier for Longevity

2'W x 3'L x 18"D Redwood Planter Box
2' Wide x 3' Long x 18" Deep, Lined with Rhizome Barrier for Longevity

2'W x 4'L x 18"D Redwood Planter Box
2' Wide x 4' Long x 18" Deep, Lined with Rhizome Barrier for Longevity

Gift Certificates

Gift Certificates We will pay the taxes on any Gift Certificate purchased by Christmas! Call Bamboo Sourcery to order at 707-823-5866.

All About Bamboo

Our Bamboo Price List is always accessible on our website and is also available by mail upon request. Our Price List is updated frequently and includes information about size, running/clumping type, sun exposure, cold tolerance, maximum heights possible in their ideal native environments, and current availability for each plant. Prices are listed for the smaller size containers (1 gal and 5 gal), suitable for shipping anywhere in the country.

This entire Information Supplement can be printed from our website (see Printable Versions for Part I and Part II.

The nursery and gardens, located 1¼ hrs drive north of San Francisco, is open Tuesday thru Saturday from 9:00 a.m. until 4:00 p.m., drop-ins are welcome, appointments recommended. If you wish to make an appointment, please call (707) 823-5866.

Fascinating Facts about Bamboo

Helps Reverse Global Warming: Incredible and true, bamboo produces the MOST OXYGEN of all the plants! And it CONSUMES MORE CARBON DIOXIDE than any other plant!

Sustainably Harvested & Annually Renewable: Mature bamboos produce new shoots and canes each year, which can be harvested individually without destroying the plant.

Fastest Growing Plant on the Planet: New shoots of some tropical species have been clocked growing up to 4 FEET PER DAY in their shooting season!

Environmental Cleanup: Bamboo plants are very effective at removing metals and other toxic substances from soils and water.

Diverse: There are over 1500 SPECIES of bamboo in the world.

Stronger Than Steel: Bamboo has a TENSILE STRENGTH of 28,000 per square inch, vs. 23,000 for steel.

Provides Safe Housing: Over 1 billion people in the world live in BAMBOO HOUSES. Bamboo buildings have proven to be exceedingly earthquake proof.

Nutrition for Humans and Animals: BAMBOO SHOOTS have been eaten throughout Asia for centuries, and branches and leaves make good fodder for animals. It contains Germanium, which reverses the aging process in cells.

Ancient Healing: Various parts of many bamboo species have been used in CHINESE AND AYURVEDIC MEDICINE for centuries.

Did You Know? Thomas Edison used bamboo filaments in his first LIGHT BULBS, and one of those bulbs is STILL burning today at the Smithsonian in Washington, DC!

Hardy: Bamboo was the first PLANT LIFE to return after the atomic bombings in Japan. Also, some bamboos are cold hardy to -20 degrees F.

How Bamboos Grow

Bamboos grow in fits and starts. For much of the year nothing much appears to be happening, and then in one brief season they explode with growth. In general, the first year or two after transplanting, you will not see tremendous above-ground growth, as the plant is putting most of its energy into its root system.

During the summer and fall, most species manufacture and store sugars in their rhizomes. Rhizomes produce the roots, top growth, and new rhizomes. Then in spring and sometimes fall, they pump the accumulated energy into new shoots (culms), which achieve all of their height in about 30-60 days. The branches and leaves develop in another 30-60 days. Shoots of some species in mature groves in tropical climates have actually been clocked growing 4 feet in one 24-hour period! As a young plant's rhizome system expands, its ability increases to produce larger, taller, and more numerous culms. Thus, each year's crop of shoots is larger than the last, until the mature size for the species is reached and new culms continue to come up at the mature size. This may take a number of years, depending on the size and age of the original planting, the species, and the growing conditions.

Individual culms and rhizomes only live an average of 5-10 years, and the culms grow no taller or bigger with age. That is why the older parts of the plant are frequently the smallest. Old or dead culms can be thinned out to make more light available for new growth.

The shooting period varies from species to species and genus to genus. In general, the temperate climate bamboos are runners, which shoot in the spring, while the tropical and sub-tropical varieties are clumpers, which shoot in the late summer and fall.

The size and appearance of any particular bamboo variety may vary significantly depending upon climate and conditions. Size alone is greatly affected by location, temperature, nutrition, water, and sun exposure.

Clumping and Running Bamboos

There are two main types of bamboo: Noninvasive clumping bamboos (sympodial or pachymorph) have short roots and form discrete clumps. There are also a few species of clumpers which have slightly longer roots (6-18"), and we refer to these as open clumpers. Running bamboos (monopodial or leptomorph) are the ones that spread through the growth of long, horizontal roots, called rhizomes. With a little knowledge and proper materials, running bamboos and open clumpers can be effectively contained. The information in this catalog will enable you to grow beautiful, well-behaved bamboo.

Clumping bamboos have a very short root structure, are genetically incapable of expanding more than few inches a year, and will generally form discrete circular clumps. The clumps slowly enlarge as new culms emerge every year, but may ultimately need to expand to anywhere from a 3 to 10 ft. diameter (or more, especially for taller types) in order to reach their mature height, depending on species. The dense root system can exert strong pressure on structures in contact with it, and thus clumpers should be planted at some distance from fences, sidewalks, retaining walls, etc. Clumpers make excellent specimen plants and will also form very dense screens, but more slowly than runners. Except for the Fargesias, clumpers tend to be less cold-hardy than runners.

Running bamboos spread variously, sending out underground runners (rhizomes) which sometimes range far from the parent plant. Runners fill in the spaces between plantings faster, making them ideal for fast screens, hedges, and the popular open grove look. Bamboo runners may be easily contained, since the rhizomes grow sideways at a depth of only about 2-18 inches. Most are also very cold-hardy.


We provide here some tips and criteria for choosing between runners and clumpers for a given purpose or planting location. These are very general guidelines and there can always be exceptions, depending on the situation.

Runners are recommended for:

  • Fast privacy screens with quick fill-in, in narrower spaces than clumpers.
  • Greatest height in the SF Bay Area – some species grow up to 50 ft. In more tropical climates, some giant timbers may reach 60-70 ft.
  • Large open groves.
  • Ground covers and erosion control.
  • Container planting.
  • Less expensive plants (but may require root barrier installation).
  • Greater variety of species to choose from.
Runners are not recommended for:
  • Situations where barrier installation is desirable but problematic (e.g. tree roots or on steep slopes)
  • Where fear of invasiveness is insurmountable.
Clumpers are recommended for:
  • Dense screens (but slower to fill in).
  • Height: Maximum SF Bay Area height is 40 ft. in some locations, but 30 ft. on average. Some of our giant timber clumpers may grow up to 55 ft. in tropical climates.
  • Specimen plants and ornamental accents.
  • Wherever spreading is undesirable, and root barrier installation is too expensive or difficult (e.g. tree roots or on steep slopes).
  • Large, wide planting spaces or containers. Clumpers may require anywhere from a 3-10 ft. diameter circular space, or more, in order reach their mature height, depending on species.
Clumpers are not recommended for (again, these are very general guidelines and there can always be exceptions, depending on the situation):
  • For fastest screens or fill-in. (They do gain height rapidly, however).
  • Narrow planting beds or small or narrow containers, especially ceramic ones which can be broken by root pressure. Clumpers cannot easily adjust their circular shape to a long, narrow space, and height of culms may be limited if too small a space is allowed for the roots. Annual thinning can extend the length of time a clumper can grow in a small, contained space, however.
  • Cold winter areas which receive lots of frost or temperatures below 20 degrees F. (except the Fargesias, which are hardy to -20 degrees).
  • For wide choice of species. There are fewer clumping species to choose from for any given micro climate or sun exposure, but there are some clumpers appropriate for almost every area. About 1/3 of the bamboo species are clumpers.

Please see Containment of Bamboo for a complete explanation of methods of containment. And see our Price List for the many available clumping bamboos (designated by the code "C"), open clumpers ("O"), and running bamboos ("R") that we offer.

Containment of Bamboo

Runners: Runners should generally be contained if on a property line or in a small yard, even if bordered by surface structures such as brick or cement patio, cement sidewalk or driveway, or shallow walls. The safest methods for containing running bamboos are:

1) Planting in containers Click the following link for details in a printable Microsoft Word document: Bamboo in Planters and Containers - Do's, Don'ts and Special Maintenance Considerations.

2) Installing high-density polyethylene plastic rhizome barrier, 60-80 mil thick and 27-34 inches deep, vertically around the perimeter of the area in which the bamboo is to be contained. This material is thicker than a credit card and comes on a 200 - 300 ft. roll in different widths, 30" x 60 mil, 36" x 60 mil , 30" x 80 mil and 36" x 80 mil. It can be cut to any length and installed in any shape desired. Even large plantings of bamboo can be surrounded with a single length of plastic, requiring only one seam. The polyethylene is superior to cement and metal (cement often develops cracks, and metal rusts and requires many seams), is less expensive, and can last 20-30 years when installed according to our barrier installation instructions. We typically recommend using the 30" barrier for most plants in the Phyllostachys genus.

Note: When planting along a fenceline, if there is sufficient space it is advisable to leave an 18-24 inch corridor between the fence and the bamboo barrier to allow a space for maintenance along the back side of the planting area. Also, when planting on very steep slopes or planting very large giant timber runners in soft, sandy soil, it may be necessary to use a 36" deep root barrier.

Less defined ways to contain runners are:

3) Water only the area in which the plants are wanted and nowhere else within 10 to 20 feet (in climates that have several dry months). Dry soils are a barrier to root growth. Spreading rhizomes require moisture and grow primarily during the warm summer months when most of the western states are dry. Cutting off new shoots coming up wherever they’re not wanted complements and completes this method.

4) A water-filled stream or ditch can also effectively contain the spread of bamboo, since rhizomes and roots cannot tolerate extended periods of saturation. Water need only be present for one season a year.

In some situations it is easiest to wait and see if there is going to be a problem before implementing containment measures. Many species require 3 years of growth before they begin to spread. Some running bamboos behave as clumpers under certain circumstances, such as lack of exposure to sun or very cold winter temperatures. On a large property where invasion of neighboring land or other parts of a garden are not issues, one may simply let the rhizomes go where they wish and remove new cane shoots by breaking them off if they emerge in any areas where canes are not desired. The tender shoots of larger species may also be harvested for food when just breaking ground. Since the rhizomes generally grow quite shallow, usually within the top 12 inches of soil, roots may also be curbed annually by cutting with a shovel and pulling them out while still young. The hazards of bamboo cultivation are often overstated.

With a certain amount of muscle power and the necessary tools, removal of bamboo IS possible. We also occasionally remove unwanted bamboo free of charge upon request, if we have time and have a use for it. If further advice or clarification is needed, please call Bamboo Sourcery.


With clumpers, it is not necessary or effective to surround the plant with a plastic root barrier. However, when selecting clumpers and planning the space, one must keep in mind that the root ball of a clumper must be allowed to reach a certain size in order to grow culms of a mature height. The circular space required may vary from 3 to 10 ft. in diameter, or more, depending on size of species. Clumpers cannot adjust their circular shape to a long, narrow space, and height of culms may be limited if too small a space is allowed for the roots.

In addition, clumpers may be shaped and prevented from putting pressure on any surrounding structures (such as a fence or sidewalk) by removing new shoots at soil level when they begin to encroach more closely on those structures. It is advisable to plant a clumping bamboo 2-4 ft. from a fence to allow some room for growth, top spread, and space for maintenance between the bamboo and the fence.

For more information about "Runners vs Clumpers: Choosing the Best Type for your Needs," please see Clumping and Running Bamboos.

Rhizome Barrier Installation

Rhizome Barrier Installation Instructions Rhizome Barrier Installation Instructions

Please read and follow these directions carefully. Although installing root barrier takes a bit of work, if done correctly it will require very minimal maintenance and reward you with many years of well-behaved bamboo.

For containing running types of bamboo we have found that our polypropylene root barrier works better than any other material, such as sheet metal or concrete. Concrete cracks and has a rough surface on which the rhizomes can get a purchase and break through. Sheet metal requires several seams and will rust, leaving the way open for bamboo "escapees.” Wood is not strong enough and will rot.

If you are planting a clumping type of bamboo, installing barrier is unnecessary and can actually cause maintenance problems down the road. For further information on the special maintenance needs of clumpers, see Containment of Bamboo.

Our polypropylene plastic barrier comes in various widths and thicknesses; what is recommended for your situation depends upon a number of factors. If you have soft sandy/loamy soil, are installing on a steep slope or are planting certain species of bamboo (especially aggressive runners or giant timber types) we will recommend a deeper and sometimes thicker rhizome barrier. Please ask our staff what is best for your situation and for special instructions if your site is on a steep slope or has sandy/loamy soil.

One of the advantages of this thick but flexible barrier is that you can create a screen or grove of bamboo of any shape. It is most effective when enough space is provided for your particular species of bamboo. Speaking in broad generalities, for small to mid-sized bamboos, define an area that is no narrower than 2 feet wide (4 feet is much better!). For larger species allow for even more space. Trying to confine your bamboo to a very small area makes for unhealthy, stunted bamboo that can become root-bound very quickly and put unnecessary stress on your barrier. Generally the larger the area provided, the happier your bamboo will be.

We also recommend leaving a minimum of 12 to 24 inches of space between the edge of your barrier and any existing structures such as fences, buildings, or sidewalks. This allows for maintenance access, which you will need to prune, check your barrier edge and to maintain your structure if that need ever arises.

When you install your barrier, it is important to leave 2 inches protruding above ground level. Bamboo rhizomes sometimes come up to the surface and then dive back down again, hopping over the edge of the barrier. For this reason we recommend you check around the entire edge of your barrier once or twice a year and clear any leaf-litter or soil build-up. Once cleared it is easy to spot and cut any rhizomes before they escape over the top and get established.

As a service to our customers we offer barrier at close to cost when over $250 of bamboo is purchased. We offer 30 and 36 inch deep barrier in both 60 mil and 80 mil thick. For light weight jobs such as groundcovers or the lining of boxes, 24 inch by 40 mil thick is also offered. All barriers are made of 100% post consumer recycled content.

Basic Instructions:

Begin by digging a narrow, exactly vertical, trench around the perimeter of the area in which you wish to keep the bamboo contained, avoiding sharp angled corners if possible. If using 30" polypropylene rhizome barrier, the trench needs to be 28” deep; for 36” barrier, the trench should be 34” deep, etc., so that 2” of the barrier remains above ground.

Insert the barrier into the trench, making sure it remains vertical (no angling in or out). Minimize the number of seams if possible and be sure to overlap the barrier 12 inches where the two ends meet (or at any seam). Be sure there is no soil in between the overlapped layers. Use our strapping system to secure the barrier seam, as illustrated. This system is basically just 2 metal straps sandwiching the overlapped area and bolted securely. It creates an effective seal and prevents the rhizomes from doing an "S" curve through the seam.

Back fill the barrier, being sure to maintain the vertical orientation and again maintaining 2 inches of barrier above ground level, and pack the soil as firmly as possible. You want to make this area as inhospitable as possible, so using heavy clay soils to back fill, especially in the bottom half of your trench is actually ideal.

Now you are done and can plant your running bamboo screen or grove within the contained area with ease of mind. May you and your bamboo flourish!

If you have questions, please feel free to call us.

© Bamboo Sourcery, 2016

24" x 40 mil Plastic Rhizome Barrier 24" wide x 40 mil. thick polyethylene, priced per foot. If surrounding your bamboo completely, add 4-5' to overlap the ends. You may also purchase 2-sided tape with polypropylene glue to seal the ends together. Order tape from menu to the left - one roll will be sufficient for 2 seams. ($.20/foot will be added to shipping cost for states east of the Mississippi.)

30" x 60 mil Plastic Rhizome Barrier 30" wide x 60 mil. thick polyethylene, priced per foot. If surrounding your bamboo completely, add 4-5' to overlap the ends. You may also purchase 2-sided tape with polypropylene glue to seal the ends together. Order tape from menu to the left - one roll will be sufficient for 2 seams. ($.20/foot will be added to shipping cost for states east of the Mississippi.)

36" x 60 mil Plastic Rhizome Barrier 36" x 60 mil. thick polyethylene, priced per foot. If surrounding your bamboo completely, add 4-5' to overlap the ends. You may also purchase 2-sided tape with polypropylene glue to seal the ends together. Order tape from menu to the left - one roll will be sufficient for 2 seams. ($.20/foot will be added to shipping cost for states east of the Mississippi.)

30" x 80 mil Plastic Rhizome Barrier 30" wide x 80 mil. thick polyethylene, priced per foot. If surrounding your bamboo completely, add 4-5' to overlap the ends. You may also purchase 2-sided tape with polypropylene glue to seal the ends together. Order tape from menu to the left - one roll will be sufficient for 2 seams. ($.20/foot will be added to shipping cost for states east of the Mississippi.)

36" x 80 mil Plastic Rhizome Barrier 36" wide x 80 mil. thick polyethylene, priced per foot. If surrounding your bamboo completely, add 4-5' to overlap the ends. You may also purchase 2-sided tape with polypropylene glue to seal the ends together. Order tape from menu to the left - one roll will be sufficient for 2 seams. ($.20/foot will be added to shipping cost for states east of the Mississippi.)

2-Sided Tape for sealing barrier 2-Sided Tape with polyethylene glue for sealing barrier, 10 ft. roll

Flowering of Bamboos

One of the mysteries of bamboo is how some species are able to flower periodically all over the world at the same time. This is called “gregarious flowering.” This was the case with Phyllostachys bambusoides when it flowered during the 1970's, as it has done every 120 years through recorded bamboo history. Being an important timber variety, records of its flowering go back many centuries. To our knowledge, no one knows what triggers the flowering. While the flowering of some bamboos is periodic, others seem to be triggered by environmental conditions such as drought or stress. We do not sell plants that we know to be going into "gregarious flowering" stage, however we also do not have records adequate to predict when most species will flower. Flowering of the individual plant may continue for 2 to 7 years and is often fatal, but with extra care and feeding, the mother plant may survive and just be smaller. In addition, the numerous seeds may be planted and will reproduce the mother plant identically or produce new and interesting variations. By the time the mother plant finishes flowering, you may already have new seedlings well on their way!

Bamboos belong to the grass family, and their flowers look a lot like the flowers of other grasses, usually nothing spectacular, but quite varied. Traditionally, botanists describe species on the basis of their flowers. Because the flowering interval of some bamboo species is so long, botanists in the field often have difficulty finding flowers and defining species on that basis. This sometimes results in multiple names for the same plant and a great deal of confusion. Promising genetic research and international cooperation should help clarify the situation.

How and When to Plant

There are no hard and fast rules about planting bamboo. But we offer the following guidelines:

Bamboos grow best in rich, moist, well-drained soils. Often the addition of compost or other additives is beneficial (see section below). Place the plant at approximately the same soil level as it is in the pot, in a hole somewhat larger than the pot. After filling in around the plant, pack the soil firmly to eliminate air bubbles and soak thoroughly. Through the first year, make sure the plant remains moist but not waterlogged. Do not fertilize for the first 6 months. Plants have been fertilized at the nursery, and additional fertilizer at this point could shock the plant.

The best time to plant varies from area to area and species to species. In cold winter climates the best planting time is in the spring when likelihood of frost is past and when the ground can be worked. Bamboos do not develop their full cold-hardiness until well established, and planting in spring gives the plant a longer growing season to get established and develop its cold-hardiness before the next cold season. If planting in the late summer, we recommend planting even the most cold-hardy bamboos at least 3 months before first frost (although planting season may be somewhat extended by using frost covers). Thick mulch is recommended to protect the plants over the first winter regardless of when planted.

In very hot summer climates , the best planting times for bamboos are early spring and late fall. Bamboos will more readily establish themselves when weather is milder and rain is more likely. Mid-summer planting can sometimes be accomplished by using shade cloth to protect from intense sun.

In mild climate areas such as coastal California, it doesn’t make as much difference, except for the least cold hardy clumpers, for which spring is still the best. Here every season has its advantages, with spring and summer offering the most active growing periods and fall, winter and spring sharing the rainy season.

Site and Soil Preparation

Most bamboos grow best in deep, well-drained, fertile soils, and they generally prefer neutral to slightly acid soils. If your soil is deficient, the extra time and expense of improving it is usually well worth the effort.

Sandy soils and alkaline soils may be improved with the addition of organic materials such as compost, peat, manures, nitrolized sawdust, or bark chips. These materials help retain moisture, acidify the soil, and also provide nutrition to the plants. Acid fertilizers can also be added to compensate for extremely alkaline soils. For overly acidic soils with pH of 5.5 or lower, add lime to reduce acidity to a pH of 6.0 - 7.0. Clay soils may be improved to provide better drainage with the addition of sand and organic materials. Most bamboos suffer root damage if submerged in water for several weeks. Drainage may also be improved by mounding the soil or ditching around the planting. Bamboos can be grown well in very shallow soils if adequate fertility and moisture are maintained. It’s always a good idea to consult with your local nurseryman about how best to amend your local soils. (Note: If you have gophers in your area, be sure to read the section on Pests before planting).

Potting Mixes

If you plan to grow your bamboo in containers, make sure to use a good potting mix. Most commercial potting or nursery mixes are adequate as they are.

The soil you use should both drain well and retain moisture. Most mixes contain both organic and inorganic elements. Sand, volcanic cinders, and perlite are excellent stable inorganic components. Sand has the virtue of being cheap, while cinders and perlite not only promote good drainage but also hold water. Fir bark, compost, and peat are good organic components. In general, larger organic particles last longer before breaking down; therefore, drainage improves with larger particles, decreases with smaller ones. It may also be advantageous to add a small proportion of loam or clay for micro-nutrients. In a potting mix one basically looks for texture rather than nutrition, however. Nutrition is easy to supplement.

Repotting every third year is often helpful to keep the plant growing vigorously and looking its best. One may either repot it into a larger pot or divide the plant with a saw or hatchet. Annual pruning of old and dead wood will also improve the appearance and health of the plant.

Fertilizers for Bamboo

Bamboo in the Ground

Mar-Sep: Turf Supreme Fertilizer, 16-6-8. High in nitrogen to keep leaves green. Use one cup per 64 sq. feet (8 oz per 8' x 8'area), applied once a month.

Oct-Feb: Apex Fertilizer, 6-24-24. For greater growth of roots and shoots. Use two cups per 64 sq. ft. (8 oz per 8' x 8' area), applied every 6 weeks.

After plants in the ground reach the desired height & density, maintain with 16-6-8 twice a year in March & June.

Also highly recommended for plants in the ground is composted horse manure, which is the bamboo fertilizer of choice in Asia. Every other year we spread it about 4" deep in late fall to allow time for nitrogen conversion and use the rest of the year. For exceptionally tall growth, two applications per year may be used (early spring and late fall). During manure application years, additional chemical fertilizers are unnecessary. Use other manures if you have them available, but avoid nitrogen-hot ones, such as chicken and steer manure.

Bamboo in Containers

Year-Round, Indoors or Outdoors: Apex or Osmocote Fertilizer, 14-14-14 or 15-15-15, four to six month slow-release. Apply the following amounts once every four to six months:

1-gallon planter - 1 Tbsp

5-gallon planter - 2 Tbsp

15-gallon planter - ¼ Cup

25-gallon planter - ½ Cup

3' x 3' planter - 1 Cup

Watering of Bamboo

First and foremost, keep your bamboo well watered. Bamboo likes plenty of deep watering - soaking down to at least 8-12 inches - and also good drainage. If you are keeping your plants in containers, or unable to transplant for a while, make sure the water is running out of the bottom of the pot each time you water. With ground plantings, a deep soaking less frequently is best, rather than a shallow watering every day. Then wait until the soil is just slightly damp - not wet, and not bone dry - before watering again. After the first few months, you can usually depend on a spray emitter irrigation system, using 1 to 2 high volume emitters per plant. (We do not recommend "drip" systems, as they do not emit a large enough volume of water and do not cover an area widely).

You will need to keep a close eye on your bamboo for a while to determine how much and how often to water in your particular microclimate, soil type and season. Occasionally, check moisture in the ground by digging down to a depth of at least 4 inches. If the soil is dry at 4 inches, water is not getting to the roots adequately. This is especially important during the first 2-3 months after transplanting. Also, as a rule of thumb, if the leaves are curling sideways (lengthwise) this means your bamboo is stressed and not getting enough water. If the leaves are drooping downward, your bamboo might be getting too much water and/or not enough drainage.

Also, in full sun, dry, windy or hot situations, it is ideal to spray the foliage with water once a day for an initial transition period of 2-4 weeks, and/or all summer in dry, hot climates. Regular overhead watering will reduce the amount of leaf drop during the transition, help your bamboo get established quickly, and increase its growth rate and ultimate height in dry climates.

Possible Bamboo Pests

Bamboo doesn't have many pests, but the pests they do have can be unsightly, if not a serious problem, unless some simple steps are taken.

In northern California we have an abundance of gophers and squirrels, who think tender new rhizomes, bamboo shoots, and even new branch buds are a delicacy. To protect the rhizomes from gophers, the best solution is to plant inside of a ¼ inch mesh metal gopher basket (which can be purchased). By the time the basket has rusted away, your bamboo is usually large and well established, and gophers cannot do enough damage to seriously harm your bamboo. If you find that new shoots or new branch buds are being chewed up by squirrels or gophers, painting on tabasco sauce is quite effective! (It may leave permanent stains on culms, however).

Insects: Mites, Aphids, Mealy Bugs, Scale, & Ants:
It is much easier to keep mites out of your bamboo than it is to get rid of them once they have established themselves, and they can become a serious problem. Therefore, inspect any new bamboo you import into your garden. If mites are found, immediately separate the plants from other bamboos in your garden and clean thoroughly with a high-powered hose. See below for stronger measures, if required. Also, mites live in grass, so make an effort to keep grasses away from the base of your bamboo.

The symptoms of mites are small, regular, bleached-looking spots on the leaves. If you look very closely at the underside of the leaves, you will also see a very fine white web. The mites themselves are silvery grey and so small it is hard to see them without a magnifying glass. Often mites and aphids can be found together, and the treatment for both is the same.

Aphids are small crawling insects, either green or black in color. Mealy bugs appear usually in branch joints as little spots of "white cotton" which seem not to move at all. Scale looks like little, flat cones on branches and leaves, and are light colored when young, growing darker and more visible with age.

Aphids, mealy bugs and scale are sometimes accompanied by ants and/or sooty mold. These insects all produce a sticky secretion that can be eaten by ants, and sometimes a black sooty mold grows on it as well. So the presence of ants or sooty mold is often a sign of insect problems. The ants themselves do not harm the bamboo. Mealy bugs and scale are less of a problem in areas which receive hard frosts in winter.

With the interests of the environment in mind, below you will find our approaches to insect problems, with the most environmentally friendly listed first:

  • If you have a pressure washer, use it once every week or two on the bamboo. This can be very effective against mites and other insects, and will not harm the leaves.

  • Create an insecticidal soap made with Arm & Hammer laundry detergent (powder), using 1 tablespoon per 1 gal water in a sprayer. Apply no more than once every two weeks. It turns leaves somewhat yellow, but is our treatment of choice because of its high effectiveness and low toxicity to the environment.

  • Niem Oil: organic insecticide which kills mites, aphids, mealy bugs, white flies, and other insects. Follow directions on bottle, including all safety precautions. (Other "ultra-fine" oils can also be used).
If the above are not sufficiently effective and you have a large area of infested bamboo, you might consider the following more toxic substances:

  • Malathion: kills pretty much all insects. Follow directions on bottle, including all safety precautions.

  • Avid: kills specifically only mites and leaf miners, no other insects or birds. Has some systemic action, which makes it more effective with mites. Very expensive and hard to find in retail stores. Follow directions on bottle, including all safety precautions.

Other possible pests - Bamboo in the West is a deer-proof plant. We have lots of deer here in Northern California, specifically the western mule deer, but have never had a problem with them. However, if bamboo is the only fodder for miles around they might eat it, especially tender new plants, and in that case, deer fencing around your new bamboo plants is a good idea. In the eastern U.S., the white-tailed deer co-evolved with our one native American species of bamboo, Arundinaria gigantea, and developed a taste for bamboo; and therefore, deer fencing is more imperative in the eastern states.

Bamboo Plant Selection

Purpose: In all its varied forms, the uses for bamboo are endless: striking, stand-alone specimen plants, a low variegated border, groundcover, accent plants in pots on a deck or patio, an interesting entryway, an Asian look for Japanese gardens, etc.

By far the most popular use of bamboo, however, is as fast-growing privacy screens and evergreen hedges. Since bamboo is one of the fastest growing plants on the planet, bamboo screens and hedges can be created more quickly and inexpensively, compared to other plants or trees. Running bamboos fill in the spaces between the original plants the fastest, and even with 3' ft. spacing some screening can be achieved within 2-3 years with smaller size pots. Clumping bamboos take more time to fill in, but are ultimately extremely dense. Bamboo Sourcery also sells bamboos that are 10-20 ft, even 30 ft. tall already which can be used for "instant screens." Almost any species can be used for effective screening, given that it will grow to the height you desire in the space that you can allow for it, and given that it is properly matched to your climate and planting area for cold hardiness and sun/shade.

We discuss below the various factors involved in selecting the plants that will best suit your needs and your location from the myriad of bamboos available. Four of the characteristics listed below are also listed with each species on our Price List.

Temperature: Cold-hardiness, the lowest temperature tolerated by the root system of each species for 2-3 nights at a time, is listed on our Price Lists for each plant. (We tend not to use zone systems, since there are so many different systems). It's best to select bamboos that will tolerate temperatures well below the lowest temperatures you've experienced in perhaps the last 10 years in order to ensure healthy plants long-term. The cold-hardiness rating generally represents the threshold for root death. Somewhat less cold temperatures may cause only leaf burn and the loss of some leaves. If the canes are not damaged, new leaves will bud out again when the weather warms up. Colder temperatures experienced for several nights may kill the tops or even whole canes, causing them to turn beige. The parts of canes which are dead will not produce new leaves and may be cut off. However, if the roots survive, they will produce new shoots (culms) in spring or summer. Cold-hardiness can be extended considerably by putting a very deep mulch over the bamboos in the fall.

A few plants may also suffer from summer heat, such as Fargesias and some Chusqueas, which do not tolerate hot summer nights (over 70 F.).

Sun: Sun needs are listed on the Price Lists. Compare with the number of hours of direct sun which your plants will receive, and what part of the day they will be in sun. AM sun is cooler, but PM sun may be harsher, and is especially harsh in dry climates.

Height & Diameter: Maximum height and diameter reached by each species in the climate of origin is listed in the Price List. This is the "known reference point." However, height and diameter are affected by all aspects of climate: high and low temperatures, sun/shade exposure, humidity/aridity, water supplied, length of growing season, etc. For example, many of the bamboos like humidity and warmth, which makes them taller and larger in diameter; but aridity and/or cooler winters will prevent some plants from reaching their maximum size. Certain plants, when grown in California, reach 50% of the height they achieve in the climate of origin.

However, if your climate has hot, humid, long summers and stays well within the plant's cold tolerance, and if the plant is located in an appropriate amount of sun or shade and will have year-round water, you can generally expect the maximum height. Height in relation to climate is somewhat predictable for most of the species, so if in doubt, check with us about height for a species in your climate.

Running or clumping type: Listed on the Price Lists. Consider all of the advantages and disadvantages of clumpers and runners for you. For example, clumpers spread wide more slowly, but grow tall faster, and don’t require root barrier for containment. Runners spread wide quickly to form screens, are less expensive, but sometimes require root barrier. For a more thorough discussion of the advantages and disadvantages and how to choose the best type for your situation, see the section Clumping and Running Bamboos.

Look desired: There is an amazing variety in bamboos to choose from. There are canes with colors, stripes, large/small diameters, exposed or covered with foliage. Leaves may be striped and variegated, yellow or white with green, long and thin, large and wide, or very small. Growth habit may be vertical & narrow, bushy & wide, weeping, arching at the top, dense or airy, etc. Selection is all a matter of taste and purpose. Read on in the Species Description List for more information and color photos. Keep in mind, also, that young plants may not immediately show colors and variegation when you receive them, but these features will become more prominent after the first year or two. And some features appear only in certain conditions and may not yet be present when you receive the plant. For example, red and purplish coloration of canes is only brought out by direct sun consistently hitting the canes themselves.

To purchase plants, please see our Plant Price List, which also contains photo access and specific details about each plant.

To read one-paragraph descriptions of many of our plants and also access photos, please see Species Descriptions.

To search for plants by your criteria: Click here to Search for plants by your criteria (such as height, cold-hardiness, sun/shade, clumper or runner)

Regional Recommendations

We provide these suggestions to help you make your selections; however, no guarantee of success is implied. The following recommendations are generalizations, and do not account for microclimatic differences. Before selecting a species for your garden, always check the temperature, sun/shade ratings, height, and running/clumping type, and take into account your humidity levels.

Far South (Tropical, semi-tropical, humid, warm year round, no frost)

Recommended: Bambusas, Chusqueas, Dendrocalamus, Drepanostachyums, Himalayacalamus, and all Phyllostachys, including Ph. nigra 'Henon,' except those noted below. Can be planted any time of year.

Not recommended: All Semiarundinarias, Phyllostachys nuda, and all Ph. nigras (except Ph. nigra 'Henon'), which need cold winters and cooler summer nights to do well. Also Fargesias, Himalayacalamus hookerianus "Blue Bamboo," Chusquea circinata, and Ch. sulcata will not do well in areas where the temperatures exceed 100 F. and summer nights are above 70 F.

South East (Hot, humid summers, some winter frost and down to 10 F. in some areas)

Recommended: Almost anything will grow in this area if minimum temperature rating of species is appropriate. It is one of the few areas that Phyllostachys heterocycla pubescens 'Moso' grows well. All bamboos in this region are best planted in spring, to maximize growing season. In the fall, be sure to plant at least 3 months before your first frost. In colder areas, clumpers should be mulched before wintertime.

Not recommended: Chusquea circinata and Ch. sulcata, Fargesias, Himalayacalamus hookerianus "Blue Bamboo," Phyllostachys nuda, and Semiarundinarias will not do well in areas where the temperatures exceed 100 F. and summer nights are above 70 F.

South West (Low desert, with hot, dry summers and very light or no frost in winter)

Recommended: Bambusas, Otateas, Phyllostachys and Semiarundinarias (exceptions noted below), Hibanobambusa, Pseudosasa japonica "Arrow Bamboo" and "Pleioblastoides," and most Pleioblastus species. Drepanostachyum sengteeanum, Borinda boliana, Chusquea nigricans, and Ch. pittieri may also do ok. In shade, Yushania, some Himalayacalamus, and other Drepanostachyums may be grown as well. All variegated forms of the above genera and dwarf forms of Pleioblastus should also be grown in shade only. It's best to plant in mild fall weather to give plants time to get established before hot summer temperatures and take advantage of winter rains. Shield plants from extreme heat, cold, and sun when first planted. They will also need frequent watering in this climate, probably daily in summer. All plants will look somewhat better if in a little shade some part of the day. Installation of misters to mist the foliage daily is an optional but useful aid to help plants get established, look their best and grow ultimately taller.

Not recommended: Bambusa multiplex 'Silverstripe,' B. vulgaris vittata, Chusquea circinata and sulcata, Fargesias, Sasas, Himalayacalamus hookerianus "Blue Bamboo," Indocalamus, Semiarundinaria fastuosa, and Phyllostachys nuda.

High Desert (Hot, dry summers, cool nights, cold winters)

Recommended: Pleioblastus, Semiarundinarias and Phyllostachys(except as noted below), Sasella masamuneana albostriata, Psuedosasa japonica "Arrow Bamboo" and 'Pleioblastoides,' and Hibanobambusas. Be sure to check that the temperature rating for the species is appropriate for your area. Chusquea nigricans may do all right, but there are no other clumpers that will do well in this climate. All variegated forms of the above genera and dwarf forms of Pleioblastus should be grown in shade only. Early spring after danger of frost is past is the best time to plant, in order to allow them to get established before the extreme heat arrives, and it's good to shelter plants from extreme heat, cold, or sun when first planted. Plants in this climate will need frequent watering, probably daily in summer. All plants will look somewhat better if in shade some part of the day. Installation of misters to mist the foliage daily is an optional but useful aid to help plants get established, look their best and grow ultimately taller.

Not recommended : Bambusas, Fargesias, Sasas, Indocalamus, Phyllostachys nuda, Semiarundinaria fastuosa.

North (Cold winters down to 0 to –20 F.)

Recommended: all Fargesias (shade plants which are native to high mountain environments) are a good choice. Also many Phyllostachys, with bissetii, nuda, rubromarginata being among the most cold-hardy; Pleioblastus, particularly simonii and simonii 'heterophyllus'; many Semiarundinarias and Sasas. Be sure to check that the temperature rating for the species is appropriate for your area. Spring is the best planting season, allowing the whole growing season to get established before the next winter. In fall, plant at least 3 months before first frost. Mulching deeply in the cold season is also important, using 12 inches of wood shavings, leaves, or hay and then removing the mulch in the spring. Some plants may freeze back in winter, but if mulched deeply will shoot up again in the spring. In the coldest regions mature heights will be lower.

Not recommended: any plants not designated to be cold-hardy enough for your lowest nighttime winter temperatures.

Near Ocean (At least 200' away from water, with salt laden air, but not salt spray) In general, bamboo does not like salt laden air and is prone to leaf tip burn. However, the following bamboos are relatively more salt tolerant.

Recommended: Assuming the species' temperature rating is appropriate for your area, some good choices are the Bambusas, Otatea acuminata, Pseudosasa japonica, Chimonobambusa quadrangularis, Semiarundinaria fastuosa, Pleioblastus hindsii, Pl. gramineus, Pl. simonii and simonii 'heterophyllus.' (Certain other families of bamboo can grow here but are much more vulnerable to leaf tip burn: Phyllostachys, Dendrocalamus, Fargesias and some Chusqueas, such as Ch. pittieri, sulcata, circinata, foliosa, and the culeous).

West Coast

This region has many highly varied microclimates, and thus can sustain a multitude of bamboo species. Hot and dry climates may choose from recommendations made for the southwest or high desert, colder mountain climates from the northern recommendations, etc. Again, always make sure your temperatures, sun exposure, sun-shade, and humidity are appropriate for any particular species you may choose. One nice feature is that Bamboo in the West is a deer-proof plant! Because there is no bamboo native to the west coast and the deer did not co-evolve with it, they will not eat bamboo unless it is the only fodder for miles around.

Bamboo Indoors

Bamboos can sometimes be successfully and beautifully grown indoors, but only if you have a very green thumb and can give them adequate light, humidity, moving fresh air, and attentive observation and care. Also, because indoor environments are usually less than ideal, rotating your plants outdoors in mild conditions is often a wise practice for their long-term health. It is very important to read and apply all of the following guidelines if you want your bamboo houseplants to look healthy and beautiful for more than a few months. We provide no guarantee for plants placed in indoor environments, but if you are feeling adventurous and have a good green thumb, read on!

Humidity: Bamboos need high ambient moisture levels. Daily misting is recommended to compensate for the lower humidity of most interiors, especially while winter heating is in use. Humidity may also be provided by placing a small fountain or humidifier nearby. It's also best to keep plants in cooler locations and away from heaters.

Light: Bamboos do best indoors with at least all day bright indirect natural light. Most will do better with a few hours of direct sun. The less light, the slower growth will be. Also, severe leaf drop may occur as a plant adjusts to less light and ambient moisture. If this occurs, often the plant will grow new leaves which are more acclimated to the indoor conditions. Please check the Sun/Shade Ratings listed under "Indoor Plant Selection" (or on our Price Lists for other plants that interest you).

Soil: We recommend a light”potting mix, consisting of 1/3 soil, 1/3 peat moss, and 1/3 perlite in order provide excellent drainage and enable the soil to aerate and dry out more quickly after watering, to prevent root rot. If you also place a layer of gravel in the bottom of your pot (which must have holes for drainage, of course), you can place the pot in a saucer of water. Without the layer of gravel, the pot must be raised up to keep it out of the water that collects in the saucer.

Watering: For the same reasons, close attention to watering is very important for bamboos kept indoors. They should be watered in small amounts, deeply enough that roots are kept moist (a little water should run out the bottom), but not so much that the soil stays soggy for days. The top 2-3”inches of soil should be allowed to dry out before watering again. Below the 4”inch depth, soil should be lightly moist around the roots at all times.

Air Movement: We have found it very helpful to have some air flow in the area with yor indoor bamboo, fresh air from outdoors, if possible. For this reason, entryways or rooms with windows near the plants that can be kept partially open seem to work best.

Fertilizer: For container-grown bamboos, we like the slow-release fertilizers supplemented with trace minerals. We use Apex, 14-14-14, a product similar to Osmocote, 14-14-14, with a 4-6 month release rate, depending on temperature. Dosage depends on size of container:

1 Tbsp per 1 gal container, 2 Tbsp per 5 gal container, 4 Tbsp per 15 gal container, ½ C. per 25 gal container, 1 C. per 3' x 3' container.

Height: Indoors, bamboos generally grow only a fraction of their maximum height and diameter, so we recommend that you buy a plant that is already as close as possible to the size you ultimately want.

Troubleshooting: Yellowing leaves usually indicate either too little or too much water. If there is too much water and the roots are rotting, the leaves may look pale and droopy. Too little water may cause leaves to have brown tips, curl up, look dry and yellow, and begin to drop. The roots may have dried out just once or are root-bound and not absorbing water well. When under- or over-watering is corrected quickly, the plant will often re-leaf in a month or two and be healthy. Dig down 3-4 inches into the soil frequently to monitor moisture. Root-bound plants may be placed in a large saucer of water for a half-hour or so to soak up water from the bottom.

Bamboos grown indoors are more vulnerable to insect pests and disease, as they are generally more stressed than they would be outdoors. Insects may be treated with the usual sprays (best applied outdoors). If the plant is small, simply washing the leaves under running water can be effective. (Please also see Possible Pests).

Suggested Indoor Bamboos: Click here for the list.

Removal of Bamboo

Below are our recommended methods for removing bamboo.

Removal Methods: Many people ask about using Round-Up or other herbicides to kill bamboo. We do not recommend it. Not only will Round-up poison your soil (and possibly yourself), but the root mass left in the ground will make other uses or replanting of the same area difficult, if not impossible, and often the plants will still re-shoot. If you are, nevertheless, determined to use Round Up, remember that the poison is taken in through the leaves only, and it must be applied in an undiluted form, which is sometimes difficult to find.

The most effective method of removal of bamboo is to dig out the entire root and rhizome mass as thoroughly as possible, including fragments. To make the job easier, water the area deeply a few days before digging. Start on the outside of the clump or grove and work your way inward. The roots generally do not grow deeper than 6-18 inches and you usually can chop them into chunks and pull them out piece by piece. (If you want to remove super large chunks at one time, you can dig deeply around the circumference of a chunk, tie a strong rope or chain around it, and pull it out with a truck or tractor!)

It is likely that you will miss a few root fragments here and there, and over the next few seasons you may see an occasional shoot coming up. If you wish, you can force any root fragments to shoot by watering the area for awhile. Then, simply snap them off at soil level by hand while they are small and tender. The tiny root fragments will thus be deprived of nourishment from above and will die off. (This does not kill larger pieces of root).

Tools for Removing Bamboo: A shovel, hatchet, ax, pick, strong maddox, and a long, strong pry bar are the most common tools used for removing bamboo. When we dig a large area of a giant timber species, we also use a carbide-tipped chain saw and a special heavy duty chopping bar. If you have access to such tools, they will save you time and effort.

Removal Services: We are sometimes able to offer bamboo removal services. If you live within a 2-hour drive of Sebastopol, CA and have a significant amount of a species we can use, we may be able to come, during the appropriate digging seasons for your particular plant, and remove your bamboo. If you have bamboo that you would like us to remove, give us a phone call to initiate the conversation.

In order to determine whether the plant may be useful to us and the feasibility of digging, we will need a few photographs and/or cane samples sent to us: i.e. a length of cane with 1-2 nodes, branches, and leaves in a zip-loc bag and then in a brown envelope. We will also need some information about the height of your plant, size of the area it covers, soil type, surrounding structures, and any other relevant details, including your address and phone number. Scheduling is sometimes unpredictable, so flexibility in scheduling is very helpful.

© Bamboo Sourcery, 2004


Culm A stem which is hollow except at the nodes, as are the bamboo canes.

Diaphragm The rigid membrane which forms the partition within the nodes, adding strength to the cane.

Internode Portion of the culm or cane between nodes.

Node Point on the culm from which branches and leaves grow on the outside, and where the diaphragm appears inside, separating hollow segments of the culm.

Rhizome A type of rootstock consisting of a creeping stem, usually growing horizontally underground. In the case of bamboo, the rhizomes are woody and segmented just like the culms.

Sheath An enclosing "leaf" which protects the young shoots, culms, and sometimes branches as well. May be dropped or retained as shoot matures.

Shoot New culm which has just broken ground, arising from a rhizome underground, completely covered with sheaths, and poised to demonstrate bamboo's reputation for phenomenally rapid growth. Bamboo shoots are a delicacy in Chinese cuisine.

Sulcus A groove along the length of the internode, sometimes of a different color from the rest of the cane.

Arundinaria   Bambusa   Bashania   Borinda   Chimonobambusa   Chusquea   Drepanostachyum   Fargesia   Gelidocalamus   Hibanobambusa   Himalayacalamus   Indocalamus   Indosasa   Otatea   Phyllostachys   Pleioblastus   Pseudosasa   Sasa   Sasaella   Semiarundinaria   Shibataea   Sinobambusa   Thamnocalamus   Yushania  


A genus of medium sized, hardy, running bamboos with 3-6 branches at each node, persistent culm sheaths, and no sulcus. Formerly, several Pleioblastus and Yushania were listed as Arundinaria. Shoots in late spring.

PSAT   Pseudosasa amabilis "Tonkin Cane" Formerly Known as Arundinaria amabilis   Known for the very high quality of its wood. Culms used to be imported from China for making split bamboo fishing poles. Vast quantities of stakes are still imported for the nursery trade. The species grows best in areas with hot, humid summers, where it reaches heights of 50' and 2 ½" in diameter. Best growth with good indirect light. Hardy to 10F. Formerly known as Arundinaria amabiis


A genus of tropical and subtropical clumping bamboos from Asia, America and Africa that shoot all year 'round, especially summer and fall. Bambusas usually have round culms with numerous branches at each node, although one or two usually predominate. The species grows best in full sun and are successful in almost any climate, including coastal environments and even desert areas, as long as winter temperatures are not too cold.

BDOS   Bambusa dolichomerithalla 'Green Stripe'  Will grow to 18' in the Bay Area.

BLO   Bambusa longispiculata  This cold sensitive clumper has straight green culms with long internodes (thus its name). It has rings at the nodes and light green stripes near the base of each culm, and it grows in relatively open, upright clumps. Can get up to 50’ tall in it’s native environment, but 25’ in warmer frost free parts of the Bay Area.

BMP   Photo of Bambusa multiplex Bambusa multiplex  The typical form of a very useful garden species. All forms share the moniker "Hedge Bamboo," taking well to pruning and shaping. They tolerate colder temperatures than other Bambusas, being hardy to 13 degrees F. or more, and do well in most Northern California climate zones. Winter chill eliminates scale and mealy bugs, which commonly afflict them in warmer climates. Grows from 35' to 45' with 1 1/2" diamters in climate of origin and 15-20' in N. California.

BMPA   Photo of Bambusa multiplex  'Alphonse Karr'  Bambusa multiplex 'Alphonse Karr'   This is a very popular garden form with attractive gold culms with multiple green stripes. The new culms often have a pinkish or reddish cast. Shoots year 'round, growing up to 15' tall in the original environment and 12' to 20' in California.

BMPEG   Bambusa multiplex 'Eddie Gaedel'  Dwarf from of Bambusa multiplex 'Alphonse Karr'. Yellow canes, with green candystripes. Internodes will sometimes swell.

BMPGS   Bambusa multiplex 'Gold Stripe'  A moderate sized clumper similar in form to Bambusa multiplex 'Alphons Karr,' but with green culms exhibiting a single gold stripe in the grooves. Grows 25' tall with 1.5" diameter culms in the climate of origin, and approximately 15' tall in the SF Bay Area. Likes plenty of sun and is cold hardy to 18F.

BMPS   Bambusa multiplex 'Silverstripe'  The largest growing form of the species at 45' tall and 1½" diameter in tropical climates. Usually 8-16' tall in California. Canes and leaves are green with white stripes which become more prominent if cultivated in a container. Also the most cold resistant by a couple of degrees. Does not do well in desert environments.

BMPT   Bambusa multiplex 'Tiny Fern'  A wonderful bamboo for small hedges (3' max. ht.) or bonsai. Clusters of small, light grayish-green pointed leaves. Culms are light green to brown. A clumper hardy to 13 degrees, preferring half to-full day sun.

BMPV   Bambusa pervariabilis 'Viridistriatus'  Recently introduced from China. Similar to Bambusa pervariabilis but much more highly coloured. New shoots are yellow with green stripes maturing to yellow/gold with varying dark green stripes.

BMU   Bambusa mutabilis  This is a beautiful, erect bamboo with persistent bluish-white waxy bloom and light brown stripes on the culms. This outstanding ornamental bamboo is a tight clumper with small leaves and dense foliage. Hardy to 18°F and can grow 18’ tall locally.

BOL   Photo of Bambusa oldhamii "Giant Timber" Bambusa oldhamii "Giant Timber"  A giant timber clumper growing 55' tall and 4" in diameter in southern California and 20' to 30' up north. Long known for its large, olive green culms, vertical and clumping growth habit, and tasty shoots. Hardy to 20 degrees. Not good in desert climates.

BTE   Photo of Bambusa textilis 'Weaver's Bamboo' Bambusa textilis 'Weaver's Bamboo'  A stately, upright giant timber clumper which grows 20 to 30' tall in northern California and taller in the south. Forms a very tight column of elegant, blue powdered, 1 1/2 - 2" blue-green canes, shaded by well foliated, arching tops. Excellent for either screening or free standing ornamental. Hardy to 13 degrees. Considered a choice bamboo for weaving because of its strong yet pliable fibers and the absence of prominent culm nodes.

BTU   Bambusa tuldoides  Also known as "Punting Pole Bamboo" from its Asian heritage of poling boats. Culms are thick walled and straight, making them useful for many purposes. Under ideal conditions it can grow to 55' tall and 2 ¼" in diameter. Olive green, shiny, upright and full foliage from bottom to top when mature. Hardy to 18 degrees.

BVE   Bambusa ventricosa "Buddha's Belly"  Bright green culms sometimes develop characteristic internodal swelling when subject to high summer heat. In humid, warm climates it can grow 55' tall and 2 ¼" in diameter. Cold hardy to 18 degrees. Makes interesting subject for bonsai.

BVEK   Bambusa ventricosa 'Holochrysa Kimmei'  Very ornamental plant. Similarly to Bambusa ventricosa, culms sometimes develop characteristic internodal swelling when subject to high summer heat, but culm is yellow with multiple green stripes. In humid, warm climates it can grow 55' tall and 2 ¼" in diameter. Will grow to 25' in the Bay Area. Cold hardy to 18 degrees. An especially exciting subject for bonsai.


A genus of two species of running bamboos from China which shoots in early spring.

BAF   Photo of Bashania fargesii Bashania fargesii  (Sometimes classified as Arundinaria fargesii). A new introduction with dense, vertical growth good for screening. Attractive dark green leaves, an inch or so wide by 6-8" long, grace 15-20' silver/gray culms. Hardy to 0 degrees. Full sun to part shade.


A recently created genus of clumpers and "open clumpers" from the mountainous regions of Asia, composed of several species that had been previously assigned to other genera, such as Fargesia, Yushania, Arundinaria, Thamnocalamus, and Himalayacalamus. Classification of these bamboos has been problematic. Shooting season is variable.

BRA   Photo of Borinda albocerea Borinda albocerea  This bamboo is similar to Borinda boliana with blue-green powdery canes, but an open clumper with larger blue green leaves. Reaches 20' tall with 1' diameter culms in the climate of origin. Culms are very straight with slight arching at top. Will grow in bright indirect light to half-day sun. Cold hardy to 0.

BRB   Photo of Borinda boliana Borinda boliana   Renamed after the founder of Bamboo Sourcery, Gerald Bol. An “open clumper with straight upright culms of blue-green color up to 16' in the Bay Area tall and spaced apart 6-9. Foliage is small and delicate, light green, and very dense. Creates a lovely vertical wall of light green canes decorated with a lacey curtain of tiny leaves, much like a Japanese brush painting. Good for visual screen and sound barrier. Hardy to 10 degrees and likes half to full day of direct sunlight. Shoots in mid-summer.

BRF   Photo of Borinda fungosa (frmrly Fargesia fungosa) "Chocolate Bamboo" Borinda fungosa (frmrly Fargesia fungosa) "Chocolate Bamboo"   Ornamental weeping bamboo that can be used as a screen or centerpiece. Likes a half-day of morning sun to half-day afternoon sun, and culms will turn chocolate-red and shiny with more sun. Has light green leaves, ½" x 3-5", which grow in small clusters at each node. This clumper grows to 14' and is hardy to 10 degrees.


A genus of medium sized bamboos from the Himalayas, China and Japan, which shoot fall and winter, and are difficult to propagate. Many branches per node. Thin culm sheaths fall away within a year. Those listed below are vigorous runners.

CBM   Photo of Chimonobambusa marmorea "Red" Chimonobambusa marmorea "Red"  Also known as "Marbled" Bamboo” because its new shoots are marbled with cream and purple. Masses of bright green leaves form on multiple short branches. The culms will produce reddish color when grown in certain conditions: leaves must be stripped from the lower 2/3 of the culms, and the culms must be exposed to warm morning sun. However, in the afternoon the plant prefers shade, and hot afternoon sun will yellow the leaves. In hotter southern states, this plant must be kept in shade all day, and therefore cane color will be chestnut brown, as they usually are when shipped, also. With the proper sun exposure this makes an attractive container plant and is excellent for erosion control or hedges. Grows 6' to 8' tall and ¼" to ½" in diameter. Hardy to 10.

CBMV   Chimonobambusa marmorea 'Variegata'  Same as CBM, except leaves are occasionally striped with narrow white lines. The cane also develop a showy, reddish color with sun exposure.

CBQ   Photo of Chimonobambusa quadrangularis "Square" Chimonobambusa quadrangularis "Square"   Unique in several ways, this plant has culms whose opposite sides are flat, forming a rounded square. Culms are rough to the touch with large nodes, and grow in an upright form. Graceful foliage is arranged in attractive tiers, creating a waterfall effect, or if topped, an umbrella-like shape. Looks best in part shade where leaves grow dark green; leaves exposed to bright sun are more yellow. This plant prefers cool daytime and nighttime temperatures, needs plentiful water, and is extra sensitive to dry conditions - may drop leaves if watering is missed. Can grow 25' tall and 1½" in diameter. Hardy to 10 F and tolerant of salt air.

CBQS   Photo of Chimonobambusa quadrangularis  'Suow' Chimonobambusa quadrangularis 'Suow'  Highly ornamental bamboo from China which is also good for screening . Similar to CBQ, but canes are gold with thin green stripes, and the new shoots are occasionally pink. Will grow indoors with 2-3 hours direct sun and misting. A good container plant.

CBTUM   Photo of Chimonobambusa tumidissinoda "walking stick"
Chimonobambusa tumidissinoda "walking stick"   A rare Chinese bamboo noted for its widened culm nodes, like two closed cymbals. Used for walking sticks in Sichuan. Graceful, arching green culms with delicate palmate foliage resemble a large, lacey Japanese maple. Moderate runner.


This genus comes from Central and South America where there are about 90 species. Uniquely, the Chusqueas have solid culms and exhibit a whorl of multiple branches at each node, giving them a distinctive look. Leaves are usually small and narrow, and most are clumpers with gracefully arching or trailing culms and branches. While highly ornamental and mostly tolerant of acid soil, many have little heat tolerance and are difficult to establish. Coastal California and much of the San Francisco Bay Area have prime Chusquea climates. Most are newly introduced to the U.S. and hard to find. Shooting is in the spring for most species.

CHCI   Photo of Chusquea circinata Chusquea circinata  Beautiful tropical bamboo from Chiapas, Mexico, with long narrow leaves, ¼" x 3 ½". Culms grow up to 20' and are shiney dark brown with full sun and light brown with less sun. Has a feathery weeping look early in life. As the plant gets older, it becomes more upright and dense. Requires excellent drainage and tops will die in temperatures colder than 20 degrees for more than 10 days. Returns to same height if roots have been well-mulched. Does poorly in areas where summer temperatures go over 100 in the daytime and remain above 70 F. at night.

CHCQ   Photo of Chusquea culeou (61-11) 'Chilean Straight'  Chusquea culeou (61-11) 'Chilean Straight'   A superlative hardy ornamental, long cultivated in England but new to the USA. One of the most beautiful and colorful Chusqueas, with dark blue-green nodes on lime-green to yellow culms. Mature plants look like tall clumps of giant feathers. They grow 20' tall at high elevations in Southern Chile and will thrive between 0 and 90 F.

CHCUM   Chusquea cumingii  A climbing bamboo with attractive bluish leaves and trailing canes which may reach 1" in diameter, 40' in length, and 10' in height, depending on surrounding foliage, or a large arbor or trellis for support. Makes a very effective canopy; best in a large scale environment. A clumping type, but…this is one of a handful of bamboos that grow new culms from the nodes of existing culms as well as from the root. Hardy to 10 degrees, preferring half to full day of sun.

CHCW   Chusquea culeou (6-11) 'Chilean Weeping'  New to the U.S. and another very striking Chusquea resembling CHCQ. Lime green culms with dark green nodes are tall and upright with weeping branches and delicate green foliage, also resembling giant, arching feathers. It grows to 20' tall with 1½" diameter in N. California and is hardy to 0 degrees.

CHGI   Chusquea gigantea  Another Chusquea new to the U.S., growing about 25' tall and 1¾" inches in diameter with exceptionally long branches at 3-4½ feet. This plant has an airy look, a delightful specimen plant but too open for screening.

CHMI   Chusquea mimosa 'Australis'  A new introduction from southern Brazil, this is a very interesting and delicate looking plant. Widely arching canes with small, delicate branches and leaves create a lacey fountain shape. In the spring, new shoots growing up through the clump are initially black, turning more burgundy color as they gain height. Then the culm sheaths fall, revealing light green smooth canes with slightly enlarged nodes. Grows to 15' tall with 1" diameter canes in Brazil and is cold hardy to 20 degrees. Prefers a half-day of sun, but may grow in full sun.

CHMU   Chusquea muelleri  A new introduction from Mexico, this is a small, deeply weeping, trailing bamboo, with dense foliage. Very thin culms have slightly widened nodes and medium size green leaves, 5" x ¾". Best in bright light to a half-day of afternoon sun. Cold hardy to 22 F.

CHNI   Chusquea sp. 'Nigricans'  May be a dwarf form of culeou. It grows from 6 to 10', has stiffly vertical leaves and branches, and thrives between 0 and 90 degrees. It is one of the few bamboos which can grow in very wet soils, as well in typical garden conditions. Needs acid soil to look its best.

CHSU   Photo of Chusquea sulcata Chusquea sulcata   One of the most beautiful, graceful and tropical looking bamboos, the sulcata has golden yellow culms with dark green widened nodes and very thin, feathery green leaves, 4-5" in length, on a whorl of short branches surrounding each node. Very delicate and airy with an umbrella shape overall, growing to 8-15' tall and 1" in diameter. Tolerates temperatures down to only 28 degrees and likes half to a full day of sun. Will die back at 20 degrees, but if mulched grows back to same height in one season. Does poorly in areas where summer temperatures go over 100 in the daytime and remain above 70 F. at night.

CHVA   Photo of Chusquea valdiviensis Chusquea valdiviensis  The largest of the climbing bamboos and the most robust of Chilean bamboos, reaching heights of 80' by clambering up trees and draping them with curtains of foliage. Culms grow to 1 ½" in diameter. Attractive on a large scale with trees or a large trellis for support. This is the largest of a handful of bamboos that grow new culms from the nodes of existing culms as well as from the root. Its temperature range is 10 to 100 degrees.


A genus of beautiful, medium sized, clumping, Himalayan bamboos. Culms arch in upper part and many thin branches half encircle each node. Shoots in the spring.

DRF   Drepanostachyum falcatum  Bright green culms, small, papery thin leaves. Hardiest Drepanostachyum. Shorter and arker green form of sengteeanum (DRS)

DRK   Drepanostachyum khasianum  Very similar to HCH but with blue-green culms. It also tolerates up to full day sun, and grows only to 12 feet tall with ½" diameter culms.


A genus of very hardy, small to medium-sized, clumping mountain bamboos from the cool alpine conifer forests of West and southwest China. These plants generally have thin canes with small leaves. Not recommended for Southeastern states in the US where nighttime summer temperatures remain above 70 F. The Fargesias are generally shade plants, but may tolerate more sun in the S.F. Bay Area when getting ample daily water. These plants shoot in the spring and fall.

FAD   Fargesia dracocephala  A hardy mid-sized clumper which forms a dense and tidy “V” shape, has strong solid culms and relatively thick leaves, making it more sun tolerant than many Fargesias. It is great for a very dense screen or evergreen ornamental. It grows best in cooler areas and partial shade, is hardy to 0°F. and grows 8 feet high locally.

FADG   Fargesia dracocephala 'Gold Stem'  similar to Fargesia dracocephala but the canes are light green-yellow

FADR   Fargesia dracocephala 'Rufa'  This versatile and popular new form of Fargesia is more sun and heat tolerant. Unlike most fargesias, this species can handle a full day of sun in N. Cal, which will produce lighter green, shiney leaves. In more shade the leaves will be dark green and shiney. In maturity, it has the characteristic weeping "umbrella" shape, and the culm sheaths and branches are copper colored. Hardy to -5 F.

FAM   Photo of Fargesia murieliae  "Umbrella Bamboo" Fargesia murieliae "Umbrella Bamboo"  An attractive clumping ornamental frequently used in European gardens, it is hardy to -20 degrees, likes shade, and grows to 15' tall. It is found in China at elevations of 10,000 feet, where it is an important food for the Giant Pandas. Small closely spaced bluish-green culms and delicate foliage create a deeply arching, umbrella-like form. Does not do well in summer heat, especially where nights do not cool down below 70 F. Flowered in 1994 in northern California.

FAN   Photo of Fargesia nitida (seedling) Fargesia nitida (seedling)  Formerly known as Sinarundinaria nitida. A choice ornamental, it grows to 12 feet tall with slender arching branches, forming a fountain shape. Dark purplish culms are covered with a bluish-white powder when young, and leaves are delicate and attractive. Nitida is is exceptionally cold resistant, withstanding -15 degrees, and is probably the most popular bamboo in northern Europe. Several related nitida varieties began flowering in Europe in 2002-2003. Flowering of the basic nitida occurred in N. California in 2003. New seedlings available now.

FAND   Fargesia denudata  Similar in appearance to the more familiar Fargesia murielae, but the leaves are smaller. The branches are relatively short, allowing the arching culms to stand out individually rather than simply being a part of a foliage mass

FANJ   Fargesia nitida 'Jiuzhaigou' "Red Dragon"  New culms turn red when exposed to sun, turning soft orangey yellow with age. Small delicate leaves.

FARO   Fargesia robusta  A cold hardy weeping clumper with dark green leaves and light green culms that have contrasting persistent culm sheaths which fade to a light white-ish color. It is more vigorous (robust) growing taller faster, and more sun tolerant than many Fargesias. Good as an ornamental clump or screen. Used for small but edible shoots, weaving and walking sticks in China. Does fine in shade and is one of the few Fargesias that can withstand up to a half day afternoon sun in cooler areas. Grown in afternoon sun, it is smaller and more compact.


A genus of small to medium sized, running bamboos botanically similar to Indocalamus and Chimonobambusa. Shoots in the spring.

GEG   Sarocalamus fangianus (formeraly Gelidocalamus fangianus)  A new introduction from West Sichuan China, where it is a primary food for the Giant Panda. This is a dwarf bamboo, growing to about 10' under conifers in China and reaching about 6' in northern California. Its best feature is its foliage with rather large leaves, about 2" x 6",” providing a texture that contrasts with other small-leaved plants. It is cold-hardy to 5 degrees.


A probable hybrid of Ph. nigra 'Henon' and Sasa veitchii f. tyugokensis from Mt. Hiba on Honshu, Japan. Both forms of the plant are aggressive runners with single branches and wide leaves up to 10" long and 1½" wide. The species grow about 15' tall, are cold hardy to -5 degrees, and and make good container plants and screens. Shoots in the spring.

HBT   Hibanobambusa tranquilans  Similar to HBTS, but this is the all green form.

HBTS   Photo of Hibanobambusa tranquilans  'Shiroshima' Hibanobambusa tranquilans 'Shiroshima'  Quite striking for its brightly variegated leaves, which are white and yellow with vivid green stripes and about 1 ½"” x 8-10"” in size. Canes are fairly unremarkable and are largely hidden by the leaves in the mature plant. The young plant has a rather open look, however. Makes an excellent screen up to 15'’ in height. Likes full sun in temperate climates, but half to full-day of shade in very hot climates. Cold hardy to -5 degrees.


A genus from Nepal to the north-eastern most part of India at elevations of 2,250 to 2,750 m. Shoots in the spring.

HCA   Photo of Himalayacalamus asper   (formerly NMC:  Neo. microphyllus) Himalayacalamus asper (formerly NMC: Neo. microphyllus)  This Tibetan bamboo is a stately and highly decorative ornamental. In more sun, culms turn maroon to almost black with delicate purplish green leaves. In summer shade, the culms remain rich green with white node rings. Culms get darker, sometimes almost black, in winter. Grows to 20' tall with 1½" in diameter in the climate of origin, 15'’ tall with ¾"” diameter here locally. Can tolerate temperatures down to only 15 degrees, and likes a half-day of sun. Shoots in the spring and fall.

HCC   Photo of Himalayacalamus cupreus Himalayacalamus cupreus  This new introduction is a tight clumper with foliage and growth habit similar to H. falconeri 'Damarapa',’ with less arching at the top. New shoots are unique in having light green sheaths with spiraling dark green stripes. Sheaths are dropped quickly as the solid, dark green culms grow about 20' tall and 1 ¼" diameter in the climate of origin. Cold hardy to 20 F. Most attractive as an isolated clump.

HCF   Himalayacalamus falconeri  This plant is a cultivar of Himalayacalamus falconeri 'Damarapa.' The culms are dark green without any striping, with abundant deep green leaves, 3/4" wide by 4 1/2" long, similar to the Damarapa. Tolerates a little more sun and more shade, but height and diameter are the same as the Damarapa.

HCFD   Photo of Him. falconeri 'Damarapa'  (formerly Drepanostachum hookerianum)"candy stripe" Him. falconeri 'Damarapa' (formerly Drepanostachum hookerianum)"candy stripe"  A highly decorative plant: gold canes with multiple green stripes, becoming shades of pink, cranberry, and purple with dark stripes in the spring and summer sun. Looks best with some leaves trimmed away from lower parts of canes to expose to sun and show off colors. Masses of leaves grow on long, slender, arching branchlets. Grows up to 30' tall with 2" diameter culms in the climate of origin. Here locally, it can reach 16' in height with 1.5" diameters. Prefers a half-day of sun, morning or afternoon, except in climates with frequent 100 degree summer temperatures, where it tolerates am sun and bright, indirect light only. Hardy to 20 degrees.

HCP   Himalayacalamus porcatus  A very upright, tight clumper with light green leaves and misty green canes covered with a white powder. New shoot sheaths are almost black, but drop off as the culms grow, revealing nearly white new culms, which darken only slightly with age. Multiple short branches grow from each node, and culms reach 15' tall and 1" in diameter in the climate of origin. Cold hardy to 20 F. Excellent specimen plant or hedge.


A genus of small Asian running bamboos which shoot in spring and are relatively hardy. Most have extremely large, wide, tropical-looking leaves and tolerate low light levels.

INLA   Indocalamus latifolius  Has leaves 2" wide by 1' long with a somewhat stiff and spiky appearance. It grows 6' tall, is hardy to 0 degrees, and prefers shade. A recent import.

INLO   Photo of Indocalamus longiauritus Indocalamus longiauritus  Has attractive, dark green leaves on upright, solid culms. Leaves are up to 1 ¼" wide by 7" long. Good house or garden plant. Tolerates a wide range of light exposure. Hardy to 0.

INT   Photo of Indocalamus tessellatus  (Sasa  tessellata) Indocalamus tessellatus (Sasa tessellata)  Has the largest leaves of any bamboo in cultivation, sometimes up to 2' long by 4" wide. It tolerates lower light levels than any other bamboo. Planted in total shade it forms an attractive 3' tall mounded ground cover. In bright light to filtered sun it may grow to 7' tall. This plant also makes a nice tropical-looking house plant. Hardy to -10 degrees.


ISC   Indosasa crassifolia  Makes a great isolated clump or hedge. This is a decorative bamboo similar to INLO, but has smaller, narrower leaves, 1" x 5".”Leaves are smokey green color. Grows 15' tall, 1" in diameter. Grows in indirect light but prefers full sun in most environments. Shoots in the spring.


A genus of medium sized tropical Mexican bamboos which shoot in mid-summer.

OAAZ   Photo of Otatea acuminata aztecorum "Mexican Weeping" Otatea acuminata aztecorum "Mexican Weeping"  A beautiful, drought resistant, clumping ornamental from the Chaparral of Mexico. Masses of long narrow leaves hang in graceful plumes on smokey green culms. This plant loves full sun and hot temperatures but may also be planted in light shade. Reaches 15' to 20' tall. It requires very good drainage, but tolerates salt air, alkalinity, and clay soils. The Otatea is hardy to only 20 degrees and may experience leaf drop and cane die-back at 18 degrees. This plant may reach heights of 15-20' in ideal conditions with warm, relatively dry winters, but in areas with more frost and occasional temperatures in the teens, it may maintain heights of only 5'-12'.


A genus of medium to giant runners with a distinct groove (sulcus) on the culm above paired branches. The heaviest shooting occurs in spring. All species have edible shoots. Nearly all can thrive with hot summers and cold winters. Most come from China. All grow best in full sun but can take some shade. The wide range of conditions under which this genus can be grown, plus its utility and beauty, have caused it to be the most commonly cultivated genus in the world.

PHAH   Ph. arcana  Great bamboo for erosion control, visual screening and edible shoots. Runner with shiny green culms that are occasionally zig-zagged at the base. Reaches up to 27' tall, with dark green leaves 5/8" x 4". Hardy to 0 degrees and does best with half to full day sun.

PHAJ   Photo of Ph. aurea "Hedge Bamboo" "Golden"  Ph. aurea "Hedge Bamboo" "Golden"   (also known as "Golden Bamboo") The most common and popular bamboo in much of the U.S, it is easy to grow, drought resistant, and great for screens and hedges, as well as containers. Dense light green foliage covers the plant from top to bottom. Culms are light green with a white node ring, turning more yellow if exposed to direct sun. Distinguishing characteristic is the short, knobby, bulging internodes at the base of its culms, adding interest. The usual height here in N. California is between 10' and 15' with 2" diameter culms, but it can reach 16' in its native environment. Because it can spread aggressively, it forms screens rapidly, and containment is recommended. It is hardy to 0 degrees and shoots in the spring.

PHAN   Photo of Phyllostachys aurea 'Holochrysa' "True Gold" Phyllostachys aurea 'Holochrysa' "True Gold"  A cultivar of PHAJ with light gold culms and occasional thin, vertical green stripes. New shoots come up green and gradually turn light yellow regardless of sun exposure.

PHAO   Photo of Ph. aurea  'Koi' Ph. aurea 'Koi'   A cultivar of PHAJ with a soft green stripe in the sulcus on light yellow culms and occasional white stripes on the leaves. Unique to this bamboo is the extremely variable internode length and occasional bulging internodes, giving the canes a knobby look. Similar to Ph. aurea in its rapid growth, hardiness, versatility and resilience.

PHAQ   Ph. aureosulcata "Yellow Groove"  This plant is a real stand-out with brightly colored green canes and a bold yellow vertical stripe in the sulcus. Frequently grows with a pronounced zig-zag at the base ('crookstem'). It is a vigorous runner with dark green leaves and tasty shoots. Maximum height (near Prattsville, Alabama) is 45' and 3" in diameter, while in Northern California it usually grows 25-30'. This exceptionally cold tolerant bamboo withstands -10 degrees. The aureosulcata group is great for medium to large size hedges and specimen plants.

PHARI   Photo of Phyllostachys aureosulcata 'Harbin' inversa Phyllostachys aureosulcata 'Harbin' inversa  The reverse of PHARR, this plant has green culms with multiple yellow grooves running the length of each internode, with no sulcus stripe.

PHARR   Ph. aureosulcata 'Harbin'  This cultivar has yellow culms with multiple green grooves running the length of each internode, with no sulcus stripe.

PHAS   Photo of Ph. aureosulcata 'Spectabilis' Ph. aureosulcata 'Spectabilis'   A very attractive recent introduction with a green sulcus on bright yellow culms, turning cranberry red where sun strikes the cane in summer. A beautiful erect specimen or hedge plant.

PHAU   Ph. aureosulcata 'Lama Temple'  A bright yellow cultivar of PHAS with occasional thin, vertical, green stripes around the cane (no sulcus stripe).

PHB   Photo of Ph. bambusoides "Madake" Ph. bambusoides "Madake"  Also known as 'Giant Japanese Timber Bamboo',”this plant has bright green smooth canes and medium size leaves. One of the largest, reliable, easy-to-grow, temperate climate, giant bamboo, it can grow 72' tall and 6" in diameter and produces excellent wood. It may reach 50' with 5" diameter culms in N. California, and lends a strong, vertical, structural quality to any landscape. Before flowering in the 60's and 70's, it was the predominate bamboo cultivated in Japan. Next flowering and die-back not due until approximately 2085. Hardy to -5 degrees. Almost identical to Ph. vivax.

PHBA   Ph. bambusoides holochrysa 'All Gold'  Decorative orangey beige culm with a few thin green stripes, and green leaves with cream to gold stripes. Culms almost translucent when sun is shining through them. Grows up to 30' tall 2' in diameter. Hardy to 0 degrees and does well in half-day morning sun to full sun.

PHBAS   Ph. bambusoides 'Aureostriata'  This unique plant was brought from Japan years ago by Gerald Bol. It sports gold stripes on green leaves as well as occasional white stripe on the green canes. Otherwise similar to PHBA. Tolerates full sun. Not to be confused with 'Richard Haubrich'.

PHBI   Photo of Ph. bambusoides  'Castillon Inversa' Ph. bambusoides 'Castillon Inversa'  A good ornamental hedge or centerpiece, this form is the reverse of PHBC with green culms and yellow stripes in a striated sulcus.

PHBR   Photo of Ph. bambusoides  'Slender Crookstem' Ph. bambusoides 'Slender Crookstem'  This form of bambusoides often grows with marked zig-zags or S-curves in the lower part of the culm, which is quite striking on such large canes. Smaller than the typical form, it grows 40-65' tall and 3-5" in diameter in its native environment, and still is one of the tallest growing bamboos in northern California, reaching 50' tall and 5" diameter.

PHBY   Photo of Ph. bissetii Ph. bissetii   A handsome, medium sized species with dark green, shiney leaves and green culms. Excellent for fast-growing, dense screens and hedges. Exceptionally hardy, withstanding temperatures to -15 degrees. If mulched, the rhizomes alone can probably withstand -30 degrees and shoot again in the spring. Does well in a wide range of light conditions. Grows to 23' tall and 1" in diameter in the climate of origin and 15-18' tall in the SF Bay Area, but can be pruned to any height. Vigorous runner.

PHC   Ph. atrovaginata (congesta) "Incense Bam."  Especially useful in landscapes where the timber bamboo look is desired, but with less height, this plant gets 2" in diameter and 25' tall locally. Air canals in rhizomes and roots make it well adapted for wetter soils. Surface of new culms have a sandalwood scent when rubbed in the warm sun. New shoots are excellent for eating . Runner that establishes and grows rapidly. Hardy to -15 degress.

PHDEC   Photo of Ph. decora Ph. decora  Culms are green with subtle rusty mottling. Grows to about 20' tall and 1 ¼" in diameter. Hardy to -5 degrees. In China it is called the Beautiful Bamboo.

PHDUL   Photo of Ph. dulcis Ph. dulcis  Arching, soft green culms with occasional white stripes grow to 40' and 3" in diameter. They tend to have large diameter for their height. Leaves are olive green. Cold hardy to -10 degrees and can grow close to full height even with those temperatures in winter. Fast growing giant bamboo with tasty shoots.

PHF   Photo of Ph. flexuosa Ph. flexuosa  Named for the distinct zig-zag pattern shown by some of the culms. Medium size lime-green leaves grow on darker green canes, which turn burgundy color in direct sun. Grows up to 31' tall with 2¾" diameter culms in the climate of origin, but is typically half that tall in the SF Bay Area, where it is usually grown as a short, arching hedge. Good for containers and great for erosion control. Cold hardy to -15 degrees. Likes full sun to a half-day of afternoon sun. Flowered and produced seed at Bamboo Sourcery in 1995.

PHG   Ph. glauca  Grows in China to 70' tall and 5" in diameter, while locally in Northern California it grows 40' tall and 2 ½" in diameter. It is a vigorous runner, hardy to -5 degrees. The young culms have a distinctive white powder creating a blue-green tone. As culms mature, they become a pale, yellow green. Excellent tolerance for both drought and alkalinity. This is a plant for many uses, such as hedging, erosion control, crafts and fencing.

PHHP   Photo of Ph. heterocycla 'Pubescens'"Moso" = Ph. eudlis Ph. heterocycla 'Pubescens'"Moso" = Ph. eudlis  The largest growing species of the genus and considered by many to be the most beautiful, Moso is the most cultivated bamboo in China and Japan. The tops arch gracefully with masses of small leaves, reaching up to 80' tall with culms 8" in diameter in the climate of origin. It produces especially tasty shoots in tropical environments and is used throughout Asia for construction. Moso is difficult to establish and requires lots of water, acidity, tropical humidity and heat to reach its full potential. It remains much shorter in less ideal circumstances (including California). Not for desert environments. Small plants should be partially shaded. Hardy to 0 degrees.

PHHU   Photo of Ph. humilis Ph. humilis  Great for erosion control or as a hedge, this vertical bamboo with small leaves is distinctive because of its short culm internodes (4-6"), and the first few internodes of each branch are hollow. A quick grower, 15-20' tall, hardy to 0 degrees, it likes half to full day sun. Leaves and culms are olive green.

PHI   Ph. iridescens  Beautiful dark green leaves and culms and is useful as a visual screen and wind break. Grows up to 36' tall and 2 3/4" in diameter in half-day afternoon sun or all day full sun. Hardy to 0 degrees.

PHNF   Photo of Ph. nigra  "Black Bamboo" Ph. nigra "Black Bamboo"   One of the most popular bamboos, both for the black culms and the plumed masses of bright green leaves. The culms come up green and slowly turn black during the first year or two. Locally, in northern California, it grows about 20-30' tall and 1 ½" in diameter. The Black Bamboo prefers full sun and grows very slowly in complete shade, almost like a clumper. It is hardy to heat and drought tolerant, but is sensitive to salts and minerals in the air, water and soil, which readily result in leaf tip burn.

PHNFF   Ph. nigra 'Daikokuchiku' "Giant Black"  Similar to above Black Bamboo, except that this clone has reached 57' tall and 3.3" in diameter, possibly the greatest height of any bamboo in northern California. The parent grove is located in Folsom, California and is growing in well irrigated, deep, sandy loam. Summer temperatures are very hot, above 100 degrees for weeks on end. It does well in 80 degree summer heat as well. In many other California locations it more typically grows to about 50' in height.

PHNG   Photo of Ph. nigra 'Bory' "Leopard Bamboo" Ph. nigra 'Bory' "Leopard Bamboo"  A large relative of Black Bamboo, which, instead of turning black, develops large decorative brown/black spots on 3" diameter green culms. It grows up to 50' tall and takes temperatures down to -5 degrees. As with the other forms of Ph. nigra, 'Bory' has very beautiful structure and foliage. Excellent tolerance for summer heat, winter cold, and drought. Cut and cured canes become dark yellow to beige with black and brown mottling, which make them exceptionally beautiful for musical instruments, furniture and crafts.

PHNI   Photo of Ph. nigra  'Henon' Ph. nigra 'Henon'  An all green form of Black Bamboo which can grow 60' tall and 5" in diameter in the climate of origin. Reaches about 35' in northern California. Outstandingly beautiful foliage and craftsman quality wood. Hardy to -5 degrees. Has noteworthy drought resistance and grows well under a wide range of conditions.

PHNM   Ph. nigra 'Megurochiku'  Grows and looks very similar to 'Henon' but with the addition of a brown or purplish-black stripe in the grooves on the culms. Also drought resistant. Hardy to -5.

PHNU   Ph. nuda  This is reputed to be the most cold hardy species of the genus, tolerating -20 degrees. It forms attractive groves up to 34' tall with culms 1 ¾" in diameter. Culms and leaves are dark green and arching at the very top. P. nuda gets its name from its ability to become deciduous with extreme cold. Does not do well in southern states with very hot summers.

PHPS   Ph. heteroclada 'Solid Stem'  This variety has light green culm sheaths with a white edge which are retained, creating a pattern on the culm. Grows to 20' tall and 1" in diameter. It has nearly solid culms and is otherwise similar to the form above. Exceptionally hardy to wind, drought & aridity. Survives -20 F.

PHPT   Ph. heteroclada 'Straight Stem' "Water Bamboo"  Now considered to be the primary species, growing larger, up to 33' and 1 ½" in diameter and with less zig-zag than the two above. It is also hardier, going down to -5 degrees. Culm sheaths are soft green.

PHR   Ph. rubromarginata  Another exceptionally cold tolerant species withstanding -15 degrees. It behaves as a clumper in cool summer climates and a runner in warm ones. Grows to 55' tall and 3 ½" in diameter and is noted for its good quality wood with long internodes and edible shoots. Tolerates alkalinity.

PHVC   Photo of Ph. violascens Ph. violascens  A totally unique bamboo with thin green to purple to mahogany vertical stripes all around the green culms. Grows to a maximum of 50' and 3" in diameter, and to 30' and 2" in northern California. Moderate runner. Hardy to 0 degrees.

PHVG   Photo of Ph. viridiglaucescens Ph. viridiglaucescens  Has powdery lime-colored culms with a white node ring, providing excellent quality straight wood, often used in furniture, and superior shoots for eating. Grows 35' tall on 2" culms. Hardy to -5 degrees. Great bamboo to work with!

PHVJ   Ph. viridis 'Houzeau'  Very similar to Ph. viridis 'Robert Young' with reverse coloring: culms are green with a single yellow stripe in the sulcus.

PHVR   Photo of Ph. viridis  'Robert Young' Ph. viridis 'Robert Young'  A handsome striped form with occasional green stripes on vivid yellow culms. Grows 40' tall and 3" in diameter. Wood is of high quality and shoots are tasty. It is characterized by the grainy quality of the culm surface which can be felt by running the edge of your thumbnail up and down the culm surface. It is hardy to -5 degrees and is an exceptionally vigorous runner, so we recommend using 60 mil polyethylene plastic root barrier.

PHVX   Photo of Ph. vivax Ph. vivax  Probably a form of Phyllostachys Bambusoides, as they are nearly identical and can be used interchangeably. This plant grows up to 72' tall and 6" in diameter in its native climate. The vivax, along with Ph. bambusoides 'Slender Crookstem'(PHBR) and Ph. nigra 'Daikokuchiku' “'Giant Black' (PHNFF) grow the largest in northern California. The vivax reaches 50' and 5" in diameter. Canes are bright green and smooth. New shoots have culm sheaths that are dark brown with light brown spots. Vivax is hardy to -5 degrees.

PHVXA   Photo of Phyllostachys vivax 'Aureocaulis' Phyllostachys vivax 'Aureocaulis'  Identical to Ph. vivax, except that the culms are bright gold with occasional, random dark green stripes and bright, shiney green leaves - an exceptionally striking variety!


A genus of small to medium size running bamboos with numerous branches at each node and culm sheaths which remain attached to the culm. The many dwarf species, often variegated, make good ground covers, hedges, and container specimens, which benefit from an annual winter clipping to keep them low, uniform, and attractive. In cold climates, they may be grown herbaciously by mulching heavily during the winter, and will survive an additional 10 to 20 degrees colder than listed and produce new top growth in the spring. Shoots in the spring.

PLAR   Pleioblastus argenteostriatus  A 3' tall, running dwarf with white striped leaves. Shade loving but can withstand some sun. Makes a nice ground cover if pruned annually. Hardy to 10 degrees or -10 degrees if heavily mulched.

PLCK   Pleioblastus chino 'Kimmei'  This decorative bamboo has attractive green leaves with occasional golden stripes. The culms are golden with a slightly spiraling green stripe. In full sun the culms turn scarlet. Grows 8'-12' tall and can tolerate down to 10 degrees.

PLCM   Photo of Pleioblastus chino 'Murakamianus' Pleioblastus chino 'Murakamianus'  A beautiful variegated form with 3 leaf colors: some solid white, some green, but mostly white leaves with green stripes (average proportion is ¼ green to ¾ white). It can be maintained at 24" height as a ground cover through annual pruning, but can grow to 6' without pruning. Likes filtered light.

PLCW   Pleioblastus chino 'Vaginatus Variegatus'  Narrower leaves and variegation intermediate between the two forms above. Grows to 6' tall and handles both sun and shade. Vigorous, attractive plant.

PLD   Photo of Pleioblastus distichus Pleioblastus distichus  A Japanese dwarf with tiny, fern-like leaves arranged in even rows. Good ground cover or bonsai. May be pruned or mowed to maintain even, dense growth. Hardy to 5 degrees.

PLDM   Pleioblastus distichus 'Mini'  A nice dark green ground cover that grows 4-10" tall. Needs to be pruned back annually in early spring, but only takes 3-6 weeks to show new growth. Hardy to 10 degrees and prefers good indirect light all day to half day sun at most.

PLFO   Photo of Pleioblastus fortunei "Dwarf white-stripe" Pleioblastus fortunei "Dwarf white-stripe"   'Dwarf White-Stripe'(AKA Arundinaria variegata) An outstanding, attractive dwarf variegated bamboo. Foliage has an upright spikey look. Tends to look a little shabby in winter. Most attractive when pruned down to 3" in spring and allowed to shoot and releaf with new foliage. Refreshes itself within 5 weeks. Grows 2' to 4'. Is hardy to -10 degrees. Prefers part shade but can take full sun in cool summer areas.

PLHI   Photo of Pleioblastus hindsii 'Yasui' Pleioblastus hindsii 'Yasui'  A new introduction from Japan with distinctive, stiffly upright leaves and a handsome upright form. Excellent for screening. Has edible shoots of outstanding flavor. Grows to 18' tall, is cold hardy to 0 degrees, and resistant to salt air.

PLHU   Photo of Pleioblastus humilis Pleioblastus humilis  A 4' dwarf with dark green leaves. Good for erosion control, hardy to -10 degrees, plant in part shade.

PLL   Photo of Pleioblastus linearis Pleioblastus linearis  Forms a 15' tall plumed bush with hanging leaves. Plant in sun or shade. Hardy to 0 degrees and salt tolerant.

PLVS   Photo of Pl. viridistriatus  "Dwarf Greenstripe" Pl. viridistriatus "Dwarf Greenstripe"   Has very attractive bright yellow leaves with sharp green stripes. Great against a dark backdrop. Half-day of morning sun produces a deep yellow color and requires plenty of watering. Half-day to a full-day of shade produces an equally beautiful light lime-green color contrasting with the dark green stripes. It generally grows 3' tall but can grow twice that. Hardy to -10 degrees and more if heavily mulched. Best when pruned down and allowed to re-grow fresh new leaves in early spring.

PLVSC   Photo of Pleioblastus viridistriatus 'Chrysophyllus' Pleioblastus viridistriatus 'Chrysophyllus'  Similar to PLVS but some leaves are green and some yellow with touches of green, but have no stripes. It is slower growing.


This Asian genus consists of small to medium sized, running bamboos with usually one and never more than three branches per node. Good as a hedge or ground cover. Shoots in the spring.

PSJ   Photo of Pseudosasa japonica  "Arrow Bamboo" Pseudosasa japonica "Arrow Bamboo"   Known as "Arrow Bamboo" for its historic use, this bamboo produces thin, strong, and straight green culms which retain the light brown culm sheaths for about 6 months. In full sun it makes an attractive 15' tall, dense screen with large dark green leaves. In shade, it grows a lighter green and more openly. Hardy to 0 degrees. Tolerant to salt air, wind and drought.

PSJP   Pseudosasa japonica 'Pleioblastoides'  Similar to the basic species, this japonica is drought, wind, and salt tolerant. It is good for hedges up to about 8' in height in N. Cal, though it grows to 18' in the climate of origin. It is distinctive in that its culms turn somewhat reddish when receiving full sun on the culm itself, but otherwise both culms and leaves are dark green. Also, it has three branches at each node instead of just one. Cold hardy to 0 F.

PSJT   Photo of Pseudosasa japonica  'Tsutsumiana' Pseudosasa japonica 'Tsutsumiana'  Also known as "Scallion Bamboo." Similar to the above, except it is lower growing and develops interesting, bulging internodes and only grows 10' tall.

PSU   Pseudosasa usawai  Imported from Taiwan in 1981, where it grows to 15' tall and ¾" in diameter, this plant takes part to full sun and is hardy to at least 10 degrees. Not a great deal is known about this plant, as it is new to cultivation.


A genus of dwarf running bamboos most of which have wide, short leaves. Most are from Japan and are useful in the garden for ground cover, contrasting texture and container plants. They usually get no taller than 6', have one branch at each node, and look best grown in some shade. Shooting is in the spring.

SAKLS   Sasa kurilensis 'Simofuri' "Fallen Snow"  A hardy bamboo from the Kuril Islands, the northernmost islands of Japan. A subtly variegated form displaying green leaves covered with white pinstripes. Leaves are about 6-8" long and 1 1/2-2" wide. Grows 6' tall, hardy to 0 F.

SANAG   Sasa nagimontana (muroi)  Creates discrete clumps about 6' tall with semi-dark green leaves and culms. Leaves are 1 ¼" x 6 ½". Good ground or container plant which is hardy to 0 degrees and likes indirect light all day, to half-day morning sun.

SAO   Sasa oshidensis  A vigorous dwarf bamboo with large wavy leaves that grows to 6’ tall locally, this shrub tolerates both hot summers and cold winters without to much leaf burn. Hardy to 0ºF, and prefers half day direct sun.

SAPN   Photo of Sasa palmata 'Nebulosa' Sasa palmata 'Nebulosa'  Valued by many for its large leaved, tropical appearance. It commonly grows up to 15' in Japan, 8' tall in Northern California, and only 3' in Southern California. Leaves can reach 15" in length and 4" in width. Hardy to -10 degrees and a vigorous runner.

SAT   Photo of Sasa tsuboiana Sasa tsuboiana  Attractive dark green foliage with leaves reaching 7" in length. Makes interesting texture under trees. Grows to 6' and is hardy to -20 degrees.

SAV   Photo of Sasa veitchii "Kuma-zasa" Sasa veitchii "Kuma-zasa"  Attractive dark green leaves which, toward winter, develop a bold, quasi-variegated effect. The leaf edges actually die back to form a decorative, tan margin. New growth during spring and summer restores the planting to a solid green appearance. Likes shade and moisture, grows 3' to 5' tall, and is hardy to -10 degrees.

SAVM   Sasa veitchii 'Minor'  Similar to SAV, but shorter and has smaller leaves with decorative browned edges. This ground cover bamboo only reaches 10-24" tall. Mow annually in late winter or early spring. Hardy to 10 degrees, and can do well with good indirect light to full sun.


A genus of running bamboos similar to Sasa except with straight culms and smaller leaves. They usually have one branch per node and they shoot in the spring.

SBMA   Photo of Sasaella masamuneana Sasaella masamuneana  Ground cover bamboo with dark green foliage that grows to 14" in the shade and 4' in full sun. Hardy to 0 degrees. For best results, mow in late winter or early spring. Plants will leaf out again within a month or two.

SBMS   Sasaella masamuneana 'Albostriata'  Also known as "Sam Bamboo." A very attractive ground cover with upright foliage, remaining fresh looking throughout the year. Shiney dark green leaves have a sprinkling of bright yellow and cream stripes. It commonly grows 3-6' tall and is hardy to -10 degrees. Half-day of morning or afternoon sun. Overwinters well without pruning.


A genus of colorful medium size running bamboos from East Asia three branches per node and nearly cylindrical culms. It shares some characteristics of both Phyllostachys and Pleioblastus. Shoots in the summer.

SEF   Photo of Semiarund. fastuosa  "Temple Bamboo" Semiarund. fastuosa "Temple Bamboo"  Also known as 'Japanese Temple Bamboo' or "Red Temple Bamboo." Fastuosa means tall and stately, and it lives up to its name. The species makes an excellent dense screen 20 to 25' tall with branches and leaves growing closely up the whole length of the culm. It has a straight, vertical growth habit suitable for visual screens in narrow places. Foliage is dark green. The culms are dark green, developing burgundy tones when exposed to sunlight. It is a moderate runner, hardy to -10 degrees, in full to part sun.

SEFX   Semiarundinaria fortis  Sports very small light green leaves at each node. It grows to 12' tall and 1 ½" in diameter and is good as a screen or hedge. Hardy to 0 degrees and likes half to full day sun.

SEMK   Semiarundinaria makinoi  Graceful low hedge or containerized plant with varying colors through the seasons. Shiny canes are teal green in cool, overcast winter weather, gradually becoming rust as weather warms in spring, and then cranberry in mid-summer in 1/2 to a full-day of sun. As temperatures become cool again, canes revert to partly green, and then are darker red the following summer. Moderate spreader, 15' tall and hardy to 0 degrees.

SEO   Semiarundinaria okuboi  Previously known as Semiarundinaria villosa. This aggressive runner grows to 25' and 1½" in diameter. Hardy to -10 degrees. Leaves are relatively wide for their length and attractively arranged.

SEYK   Photo of Semiarundinaria yashadake  'Kimmei' Semiarundinaria yashadake 'Kimmei'  Decorative bamboo with almost translucent golden culms which have a slightly zigzagging pale green stripe down the groove. Culms grow 12-15' tall with a maximum of 1" diameter. The dense foliage is green with thin golden stripes. Looks best in full sun, which turns the canes reddish in the fall, but will grow in 1/2-day afternoon sun. Tolerates temperatures down to -5 degrees. Great as medium size screen or container plant.

SEYKH   Photo of Semiarundinaria yashadake 'Kimmei Holochrysa' Semiarundinaria yashadake 'Kimmei Holochrysa'  Very similar to SEYK, but culms are all yellow with a translucent quality that makes them almost glow in the sun. Culms of this plant can reach 1 ½" in diameter.

SEYKI   Semiarundinaria yashadake 'Kimmei Inversa'  Also similar to SEYK, but culms are light green with a yellow stripe, with culms receiving direct sun turning blackish with a red stripe.


A genus of small, non-aggressive, running bamboos from China and Japan with 3 to 5 short branches per node and wide, short leaves. Prefers semi-shade and shoots in the spring.

SHK   Photo of Shibataea kumasaca Shibataea kumasaca  An excellent, bright green ground-cover with a compact, shrubby look. Its leaves are wide, short, and horizontally arranged. Uncut, it usually grows 5' tall, but can reach 7'. Slow spreading and shallow rhizomes are easy to control with a shovel. Looks best in shade with no direct sun; but will tolerate am sun. Hardy to -5 degrees.


A genus of tropical running Chinese bamboos similar to Semiarundinaria except the culm sheaths promptly fall off. Good container plant. Shoots in the spring.

SITA   Photo of Sinobambusa tootsik albostriata  Sinobambusa tootsik albostriata   A spectacular variegated form of tootsik that has white leaves with green stripes and darker, olive green culms. The contrast between light-colored leaves and dark canes is quite striking. Growing 20-25' tall with 1½" diameter culms, this plant is unique in being so brightly variegated and also tall. This plant prefers morning sun and afternoon shade, and it spreads slowly in shade, almost like a clumper. Mite resistant. Shoots in spring.


A genus of clumping mountain bamboos from Asia and Africa. Shoots in the spring.

TAR   Thamnocalamus aristatus  Attractive lacey bamboo from the Himalayas. Culms range from pale green to turquoise color, and branches are often reddish. Grows to 12' tall and is a clumper. Hardy to 5 degrees and does best with only half day sun.

TTS   Photo of Thamnocalamus tessellatus Thamnocalamus tessellatus  Also known as Berg Bamboo in South Africa, where it is the only native. Grows 16' tall with 1" diameter culms. Retentive white sheathes leaves form an interesting pattern with triangles of dark green culm showing through. When grown in part shade, the culms bend over with the weight of numerous, closely spaced leaves. Hardy to 0 degrees.


A genus of medium sized, clumping mountain bamboos from Asia. Shoots in the spring.

YUA   Photo of Yushania anceps Yushania anceps  A very graceful mountain bamboo from Formosa and the Philippines. Myriads of small leaves form lovely patterns on blue-green culms. As an “open clumper,” culms are erect with some distance from each other, but the tops of this plant are deeply weeping. It readily forms dense masses of foliage in less light than most bamboos and may be effectively used for screening in shady places. When grown in full sun its leaves tend to curl. It can reach 12' with culms ¾" in diameter. Hardy to 0 degrees.

YUANP   Photo of Yushania anceps  'Pitt White' Yushania anceps 'Pitt White'  Possibly the same as YUA, but this clone is a seedling of a plant which grew 32' tall at Pitt White, England. Leaf pattern seems to be more regular, and therefore even more beautiful than the YUA.

YUC   Yushania chungii  Similar to YUANP, but foliage is dark green and dense from top to bottom. Grows to 12' tall, is good for hedges and screening, and does well under redwoods. Hardy to -5 degrees and likes morning sun, afternoon shade.

YUM   Yushania maling  (Also known as Arundinaria maling). New to the U.S. from India, this clumping bamboo is similar to Yushania anceps, but its shoots and culms have dark red hair. Grows up to 15' tall with culms 3/4" in diameter. Hardy to 15 degrees, and tolerates a wide range of lighting.

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